Lockwire For Track Bike

22 gauge (0.75mm) and I am of an age not to have had the luxury of lock wire pliers so do it by hand. What you need to achieve is a tethering point to stop the nut/bolt from undoing. It needs to neat not a work of art Andy

 

9in probably make it easier as it’s less pulls for longer twists like around sprocket nuts.

Be careful with the large spools of wire. I went up a gauge, 8 I think, and the coil remains there when trying to use and it can be fiddly too get smaller bits done ime

 

Greg, size of pliers won’t affect the number of twists per inch, that’s down to the number of times the pliers are spun for a set length of lock wire. The number of twists per inch dependant on gauge of wire being used.
Mr bimble

 

20's or 22's gauge stainless steel locking wire is more than up to the job for bikes. In aviation there is a recommended "twists-per-inch", but I have long forgotten what it is, I just do it so it looks right.
The wire locking below "looks right" !
Although I have 6" wire-locking pliers, I seldom use them. I prefer to use my duck-bill pliers & twist by hand.

 

Most racing rules require a dia of 0.7-1.0mm for locking wire, though I've never seen anyone getting that anal when scrutineering.

 

36inches of wire should do a sprocket, doubled obviously, it's enough on the sprocket of a Ducati, my pliers are 9" and find 5 twists are about right for me

 

I've got a 6" pair of snap on blue point a 9" pair of Beta pliers, both are good, but the blue point are nicer to use, I use 22 gauge (0.71mm/0.028") stainless wire which is more than man enough for anything on a bike. twists per inch is dependant on wire gauge, for the stuff I use 6-11 twists per inch is right.

 

6” will be spot on for a bike. Much handier for getting in those books and crannies.

I use 9” at work but that’s for securing heat cladding on industrial gas turbines.