I've discovered a broken cylinder head stud. So my dilemma was take it to the shop or have a go myself. I'm an old brickie not a mechanic and have never ever opened an engine before but really wanted to try this for a few reasons. Getting to know the bike better and the satisfaction,but I really need lots of advice if I'm to get through it. So hopefully I can count on some help from you guys. I've managed to strip the engine down after making sure I've got TDC and all the timing marks lined up perfectly,marked the belts counting the number of teeth on the belts and making notes plus taking loads of pics. I've kept the pistons in the barrels as I've been told it's the best way and saves a lot of hassell. I'll try to post some pics and if yous see anything that looks suss let me know.
A wide cross-section of knowledgeable folk on here, good luck with stud removal, the fact that it's not broken off flush is a good start.
Davyd What Exige is suggesting is that you do as I did and order a set of APE studs through him. But he's being a bit too Subtle about it. They are much better than the Ducati ones, and if I remember correctly the same price or slightly cheaper. Nasher.
This is a common problem. There should be stuff all over the internet about it. Don't forget the 900SS has the same engine, so don't forget to Google that as well as the Monster
Ok a Wee update. Got all 8 head studs replaced today a two hour job. I just did the two lock nut job on each stud and couldn't believe my luck they just screwed out nicely with a 12" shifter, I did squirt a Wee drop of penetrating oil on each one and did the screw it out and in again to help it out On the broken one I grinded two flat sides on it and the shifter was able to grab and shift it. I then ran a tap down the threads and cleaned them out,I used cotton buds to make sure, I thread locked each new stud and screwed them in. That for me was the easy bit. Getting it together will be where I need help.
Slow and steady is the key, think each stage through before you start and think about how you're going to do it. No hurry at the moment with the weather how it is so just chill out and go slowly. Loads of help on here if and when you need it.
I did a similar job a few months ago on my 900SL whose engine failed and I sourced a 94 Monster replacement. Got that cheap'ish as it had a couple of broken studs. I really struggled with getting a couple out so you got off pretty lightly - 1 really held fast and needed lots of heat and swearing at but the double-locked nuts did the trick. Tricky getting pistons into the bores : used zip-ties to hold them in place. Sourced a top-end gasket kit from Ducati that had most bits, think it lacked exhaust manifold gaskets and metal 1/2 rings for the headers - you maybe aren't needing these ? I also replaced 2 of the 3 galley plugs on the crank - these are known to back-out and can lead to engine failure. 3rd plus requires cases split and as far as I could see it looked to be located well. Accessed just ok with the front piston sitting at the right height. Neither of the 2 plugs I replaced were super-tight, 1 was definitely not in as well as it should have been and came out very easily so it was something worth attending to. For me, as a keen but not particularly skillful spanner-twirler it was a bit scary but really fulfilling - fortunately my mate is very good and has been a car/bike mechanic for 30 years so I did more tea making than engine assembly but I did get my hands dirty and did the main removal/install.
I use a length of 0.4mm shim steel and a large jubilee clip. With a little oil, tighten it up to get the rings in the grooves and then back it off a little and it slides down the piston as the piston slides into the cylinder. Good thing is, it' very slim so can get into the limited space available especially if the engine's still in the frame (I always fit the pistons to the rods first). It also cost me nothing as I had the parts just sitting around;
I kept the pistons in the barrels, as suggested by some one on this site. But you lads are always coming up with clever time/cost saving tips like this.
When I've tried that I usually end up dropping the clip into the engine whilst attempting to fit it, that or it 'pings' across the room. Plus taking the piston out gives you a chance to inspect the rings and make sure they're lined up opposite each other (at least to start with).
So I'm at the stage where I'm ready to reassemble my barrels and head. I've meticulously cleaned all the mating surfaces,I have all my new seals and a tube of threebond. So checking online for the torque settings. Is there a method to this? Is it done in stages? Is there a sequence I should follow. How do you guys do it and what setting should I use.
There's 3 stages of torque applied in a diagonal sequence, 1st stage is 15nm 2nd stage 30nm and final stage 39nm +/- 1 nm for new upgraded black studs, It can seem nerve wrecking to some but really your only tightening 4 nuts! Get on with it!:sweatsmile: Do both cylinders while you've got the motor out,cause the other cylinder will do the same!they all do,( sliver studs)
Just tried and tested engineering practice,not a knack? A recognised method to protect warping of critical sealing surfaces,not necessarily m900 engine,any flat mating surface,IE: water pumps ect,saves a lot of bother and cost,bodge away to your hearts content then cry about bad build quality I've even heard some people claim " to just know it feels right" as they search for the helicoil kit,
Im pretty thick skinned. Ive been riding all sorts of bike all my life. But never delved into an engine before now. I bought this monster to keep and I really want to do as much as possible myself to get to know it better. All your help is very much appreciated and needed believe me. I've already replaced all eight studs. Here's what I'm thinking please correct me if I'm wrong or about to do something silly. I will be using a very fine smear of three bond on both sides of the metal shim only then replacing the oil seals and then torquing the heads down using the three stage, diagonal method. In saying that there seemed to be a trace of three bond between the barrels and head also? Which I had to remove. Should I consider doing this?
It's not needed,any pressure points are internal and the way the barrel is machined there would not be a lot of pressure in this area,if it's clean and torqued down properly, the manual has no mention of any sealant, (I use grease on my strokers but they get inspected regularly) As you know there's no head gasket and no sealant needed here either,as long as your sure all mating/sealing surfaces are clean and machine flat!
