I posted and got replies on the oil level for the forks on the 1098.......... Thanks Anth & Duke, appreciated. Anth posted a copy of the Ohlins card which states, measure oil level with the springs removed, now R&T owners manual states remove springs and preload tube, before measuring...........that was the way I did it............BUT when I checked the existing fork level it was way down, I think about 170mm and when I emptied the fork I got about 300cc of fluid out. Set the level to 155 and it took about 350cc and the fork seems pretty stiff, which I suppose it would be with the air gap reduced (the card states the fork should take about 400cc) Before I put them back can anybody tell me what they did and how it worked out? Preload tube in or oot for measurement, that is the question? Forks seemed fine before, I only ride on the road. Tempted to put the preload tube in and take fluid out to get 155 air gap Sorry for second post on this, the manual and cards conflict (sort of). Maybe I should just take up macrami instead of motorcycles John
Spring and preload tube out. 155mm air gap. Spring goes in before preload tube, so they both gotta be out
Nelly thanks a lot........................ BUT good grief this just gets worse. Have I got it even more cocked up Removed preload Removed top cap Separated jamb nut from top cap and removed top cap Removed jamb nut and spring support Removed spring Fished in the fork and removed the tube which was an Al tube with a Teflon (?) ring on the top.......I took this to be the preload tube which is the way the R&T manual shows it. So the way I have it the preload tube sits on the bottom (and goes in before the spring) with the spring sitting on top of it...........unless what I am calling the preload tube isn't. There were no spacers, washers, tubes or anything else between the spring and the spring retainer on the top of the spring. Arggggggh I'll see if I can post up some pictures later to make it a bit clearer. Might just assist some other poor sod later too. John
No need to take this one further. I am pretty confident now that the preload tubes should be removed. I found some more info on Ducati.ms confirming this. Some of our colonial cousins appear to be running air gaps well below the 155mm When I assembled the forks again I found 2 things, first I am getting a distinct click at the start of fork travel, no idea if that's because of the preload being wound off or I did something wrong, although for the life of me I cannot think what. Secondly and more important is the seals have gone. I had noticed a very slight weep on the fork last year and put it down to ACF 50 that I spray on the forks over the winter. Anyway when filled to the correct level and compressed its quite obvious that the seals are toast. Just going to take them to the dealer I've had enough of them.........sick as a proverbial sea going. Them's the breaks I guess Thanks to everybody who posted up though it is appreciated and I've learned a bit more too, so not all bad John
Get the dealer to put gsxr fork seals on John.....they last a lot longer, that's what will be going on mine when they fail.
It is as said the springs go in first, you can unscrew the inner spring inside the seal and tighten it by clipping off 1mm and then rejoining it, if you look carefully you will see the join it unscrews often helps problem forks, did you use PVC tape or film to protect the seals when you slide them on the fork, air gap only effects bottoming out you can fine tune the dive by adjusting the air gap, sorry if I state the obvious. If you are to lube the fork for storage I'd use the oil you have installed in the fork, as good as ACF is I would not use it. It's recommended to use some lube on the fork to reduce sticktion even on a nitride fork. I think it's best to use a clean area where you can lay out all the components of the fork for cleaning and reassembling, I use a LARGE stainless steel bench to lay out, clean, check, and rebuild forks in the order they came apart that way I check and double check each step of the way fitting new bushes and seals and setting air gap and comp etc at the final stage.
Ohlins have a triple lipped seal now to combat leaks. They last much better than the previous versions.
Anth and Arthur thanks. I'll do that Anth what a PIA....................."looks like you've blown a seal"............"naw that's just a little ice cream" Arthur if you've got the time enlighten me, please, I just don't get it (no more than 2 syllable words please) I am using the FGRT manual in conjunction with the card Anth posted up for me Manual below http://www.zupin.de/uploads/tx_userzupindownloads/OM_07282-05_01.pdf Are you talking about the bottom spring Arthur? As I understood it to do the oil level you removed just the main spring and preload tube, then poured in the oil to get the air gap. I didn't have to separate the forks just opened the top to change the oil. I'll take your advice and follow that in the future re lubing the stanchion...............I still can't understand for the life of me how the spring goes in before the preload tube....... John
Well I'd say never too models the same but looks like the FGRT data is similar to the OEM fork, here is some info posted by DanKyle.. Some Basic Ohlins information - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum You say about air gap but too little is worse than too much IMO as no air gap will cause the fork to pressurise on heaving braking and could force oil from the seals etc etc, if no data I normally run around 125mm then tune the dive but an average rider would never note any change no matter what air gap you set as long as there is enough oil for the fork to function.
