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1098 Mosfet Regulator Installation

Discussion in '848 / 1098 / 1198' started by Robarano, Mar 10, 2019.

  1. I've got round to fitting the Mosfet regulator to the 1098R today. As I was a complete novice as to doing this conversion, I've decided to post this, in case it's useful to others doing the same.

    Time -
    • Approx 2 hours
    Parts -

    IMG_7776.JPG
    • Mosfet regulator. I got this 2nd hand from a Ducati breaker for about £40. It's a part common with a load of bikes that Ducati make and fitted as std to the LiPo equipped Panigale R.
    • Triumph conversion lead. About £28 from eBay, but I believe it's quite a bit cheaper from a dealer.
    Screenshot 2019-03-10 at 20.34.08.png
    • Bikesport Developments RHS regulator conversion bracket, £100 (optional if you want to move the reg away from the exhaust). The original regulator is just above the exhaust and I imagine there's a lot of heat in the area. In fact, the heat shield on my bike has bubbled up as it's close to the 70mm system. This comes with extension leads and bolts / spacers.
    Screenshot 2019-03-10 at 20.39.44.png

    So, here we go.........

    Select your favourite 848, 1098, 1198.

    Fairings and belly pan off.

    IMG_7792.JPG

    IMG_7793.JPG

    Disconnect the battery negative cables.

    Remove the ECU (2 bolts). I have read that people remove the battery box. I didn't need to.

    IMG_7794.JPG

    Remove the regulator located behind the ECU (2 bolts)

    IMG_7796.JPG

    IMG_7797.JPG

    My 2 regulator electrical connectors showed no signs of heat damage, so I could proceed. If yours do, rectify them. (no pun intended)

    IMG_7798.JPG

    Before fitting the regulator to the Bikesprt Developments bracket I had to modify it to accept the Mosfet regulator. The bracket is manufactured for the original regulator, which has fixing centres of 80mm. The Mosfet unit has 70mm centres, so I had to drill an additional hole on the bracket.

    upload_2019-3-11_11-0-48.png

    Fit the bracket and regulator the the RHS horizontal cam belt cover. Remove the 3 corresponding bolts from the cover and fit with the replacement bolts and spacers from the BS kit.

    IMG_7801.JPG

    There was nothing in the kit which said where to route the cables to link with the loom on the LHS of the bike, but everything lent itself well to going under the horizontal cyl adjacent to the starter motor.

    IMG_7803.JPG

    Difficult to tell in this pic, but I had to cut into the tape on the ECU loom to pull the original regulator connector backwards slightly to allow it to join the new wiring. Then taped the loom back up.

    IMG_7802.JPG

    Refit the ECU. Ensure to connect the earth cable (C) to the RHS bolt of the ECU. The bike will not run without it, it's hidden behind the loom and easy to miss.

    Screenshot 2019-03-18 at 19.28.42.png

    Cable tie everything back up.

    IMG_7806.JPG

    Refit the bodywork to your favourite 848, 1098, 1198.

    IMG_7812.JPG

    The regulator looks to be in a nice cool place once the bodywork is refitted. :upyeah:

    IMG_7808.JPG

    Employ your original regulator as a paperweight. :thinkingface:

    IMG_7814.JPG
     
    #1 Robarano, Mar 10, 2019
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 27, 2020
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  2. Is it my eyes or do the red wires look really thin?

    Well documented.... useful to others.
     
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  3. Nope, the wires in the kit from Bikesport Developments are quite thin. A lot thinner than the ones on the Triumph loom.
     
  4. I'm sure they have done their Ohms law sums......:eyes:
     
  5. Tbh, when you look at the wiring on the Triumph loom, you could run the power from a small nuclear reactor through them. :thinkingface:
     
  6. Do you know the wattage of the 1098 generator set?
    Say 400 Watts, that's 133W per cable (assuming three phase), so 11Amps.... 14 awg wire should be ok...
    or if you are European then 1 to 1.5mm should be fine for the copper part of the cable... thicker for stranded.
     
  7. Que? o_O
     
  8. Do you have a local auto electrician?
     
  9. Ahem you mean 9.6 amps assuming that the generator is outing 13.8 volts. Or if higher then lower. One spark to another old bean. 1.0mm stranded tri rated is 10A 1.5 from memory was around 14A
     
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  10. Circa,
    stator will output up to 20V ac PP....
    The ratings vary depending on location and insulation type....and on a Ducati..... I'd down rate all of those.
    :kissing_heart:
     
  11. Sent you PM
     
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  12. Responded.
     
  13. Started the bike and ran it today. I left it running for about 20 mins and the regulator never got more than slightly warm. Dash voltage was 12.4v with the engine off. Voltage rose to 13.6v at idle and 13.8v when revved.

    IMG_7818.JPG
     
    #14 Robarano, Mar 16, 2019
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 17, 2019
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  14. An update on this. Used the bike for about 200 miles today with no issues. Bike’s working fine, charging and the reg stays only luke warm :upyeah: :)
     
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  15. what kind of problems did you had with the old regulator?
     
  16. None. But some have had issues with changing over to a LiPo battery with the standard regulator. :bomb: o_O
     
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  17. Hi! What kind of issues? Witch regulator did you ordered?
     
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  18. In layman's terms, if the earlier type of rectified failed, the output of the alternator went straight into the battery. The later type fails to ground so is much better for the current generation of batteries. Andy
     
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