OK, new here. Came across this forum when searching the internet. Bought a multistrada 1000ds for a project. Broken dash (rpm needle and lcd screen) but since I was planning to replace it, no problems for me. That all changed when I started with the electrics. I figured that It was possible to make the bike turn over at least. After that I will send the ecu for a reflash. But I can't make the bike turn over. One time the bike turned over from the moment I turned the key. Now it is impossible to get any life out of it. Engine light is on, as is oil light, no neutral light. I measure 12 volts on the starter solenoid. When pressing start it goes to 0 volt. Is it possible something in the dash is preventing the bike to cranck? I hear the injection go on when I turn the key on. That's about it. If I connect the 2 high Amp connections on the solenoid the bike turns over. Am I missing something? Should i get the ecu tested? What about the neutral light? I've read that if you put the clutch in, bike in first, you bypass the neutral switch. Still a no go then. Not even a click from the solenoid. Ground is the ecu and the big cable from the battery. Both clean connections. Thanks, Kjelly
12v at the main lead going to the starter solinoid that disapears when button pressed? if so you have a duff main lead from the battery or a goosed battery.
As far as I know, it's just the small wire wich makes the solenoid activate itself when pressing the starter button. But I'm not that good in electrics. So I could be wrong
if you just want to check engine turns you can crank straight to starter/short between solenoid terminals if you don't mind the sparks?
Wiring diagram attached @finm. You'll see that the red/blue wire to the solenoid is ignition switched 12V. The blue/black wire should provide a ground from the ECU when the starter button is pressed (assuming the neutral/stand/clutch switch conditions are met) activating the solenoid and hence the starter.
yip, i see there no relay inbetween the ecu and starter solinoid then. (which is becoming more comon on cars) i guess we should be looking for continuity and conection quality from multiplug 49 and the solinoide first
Aye, if the 12V is dropping out when the button is pressed there must be a poor connection between the solenoid and the battery, most likely at the multipin connector or the 20 fuse. Anywhere further upstream would affect a whole lot of other circuits as well.
Yes, No 39 in this diagram. Check it for oxidation or corrosion of the terminals. Check also the 20A fuse, although if that was the issue I'd expect the horn wouldn't work - worth checking?
All fuses are good. Connector is clean too. I measure 12v at the connector from the solenoid. So I guess the voltage comes through? If the horn works I don't know because if have none. Bought as a project bike. Don't have headlight and rear light to. I wasn't planning to bring it back to original. For that to many pieces are missing
Measuring voltage with a digital meter is one thing but if the voltage at that point drops when a current is initiated then there is a high resistance upstream somewhere. Try using a test lamp with a 21W bulb instead of a voltmeter and see if it lights at full brightness at the solenoid terminal. Wait a minute! I just had another thought about this. When the ignition is on and the starter button is pressed you will measure 12V at both solenoid terminals. When the starter button is pressed the blue/black wire should drop to 0V, which would indicate that the ECU is doing it's thing, but the red/black wire should remain at 12V. In this state the solenoid should be engaged and the starter turning. If nothing is happening it would seem that the solenoid is knackered.
So how do I measure this. Both terminals at once or 1 by 1 using ground? I will do this tonight. What if I don't measure 12v over the terminals? I do know that the blue/black wire is dropping to 0 when the button is pressed. Thanks for all the help so far guys. If I can get the duc to cranck I can send the ecu for flashing.
One terminal at a time between ground. Ignition on, red/black to ground should measure 12V, blue/black to ground should also measure 12V. On pressing the starter button red/black to ground should still measure 12V, blue/black to ground should drop to 0V. Disconnect the wires from the solenoid and measure resistance across the solenoid terminals. You should read several hundred ohms, maybe a kΩ or so. I reckon your solenoid is open circuit and you will measure infinity. Let us know how you get on.
One more thing. If I connect the sidestand switch I can hear my injection working. I wonder if this is normal?
Yes. It will enable the fuel pump relay, coils and injectors. The pump will run for 2 or 3 seconds at ignition on.
