Got a problem with the gearbox. Stripped everything off today so I can drop the engine out tomorrow and run it up to a local ish company. It’s not gonna be cheap I know. But is there anything worth doing while the engines out.
I was here a couple of years back after a crank seizure....hmmmm - where do i start....and its (as per usual) how much you want to spend and, if your keeping it... And this is not in any particular order by the way.... 1. Get the crank balanced: Mine siezed and while ducati john said he could just fit it a balanced crank is smoother to ride... 2. Main bearings: While its apart - change them - i suspect youve got the older type (more reliable) - mine had the newer type and i was advised to change. 3. Light head work: Dead cheap....essentially grind away the castings around the valve stem to give a larger bore..... 4. Engine recoat: Got mine redone in cerakote. 5. Go here: http://www.factorypro.com/index.htm and get the ceramic gear shift unit....makes the gear shift solid. Theres also a return spring on their site (lightens the gear shift feel) And the depressing bit....mine rolled in with all the above stuff done (i had a full set of gearbox bearings installed also) at about 3k...
What bike is it? As comfysofa says really. If it’s a 1098 I’d upgrade the pistons too. OE pistons are shite. I’d budget £4K for a full on rebuild. No point penny pinching when the cases are split. Rebuild to the highest standard you can afford.
Well now this has happened I guess it’s going to be a keeper for a while. And going on the fact I’ve only had it around a month it’s a crap thing to have happened. depending on the cost of this rebuild ( I’ve been quoted between £1200 to maybe £1500 ) will depend on what goodies I throw at it. I’ve also been told that once you’ve stripped the barrels off you have to fit new rings at £100 each. Lol
Yeah - if its a keeper then its really down to you.....3k was a bitter pill to swallow but (and it may sound a bit weird) - but its way better in every way than it used to be....smoother quicker off the throttle and a bit more on the top end....
I’m gutted. I’ve probably only done 100 miles on it since I got it. Oh well. Shit happens as they say.
Comfy. Was that 3k with all the extras? Did u do the head work yourself? The place where I’m taking the engine really know there stuff so maybe they will throw me a few pointers along the way.
Yeah - that was the whole shooting match....including the cerakoting.... @HYPERBIMDUKE gave me the pointers and advice on the head work...my whole financial journey was on here...!! https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/hypermotard-1100-evo-sp-rebuild.60884/ Away you go...picture heavy!
Comfy. Believe me! I’ve looked at that post many of times lol. Well the engine will be out this evening. Going to call Simon at race engineering today to find out when he can start the work. We will have to see what mods I can afford along the way. I’ve thought long and hard over the last couple of days if I want to go ahead and spend this sort of money. Or do I just run for the hills, sell it, take a loss. Due to the fact I know I’ll go straight out and buy another 1100 I’ve come to the conclusion that by spending money on this one I’m saving in the long run. I will apologise in advance. Reason being. I know I’m going to be on here asking advice and recommendations. This more than likely goes out to you Comfy
"gutted" is an understatement. I'm guessing bought privately? - you could have some comeback if dealer purchase - some might argue ditto private. Can you confirm 100 miles approx? Do you know if chain parted at "joining" link?
This's bullshit! As long as the bores and the rings are in good condition with the ring gaps within spec, then it's OK to refit them. If you had a base gasket leak and you removed the top end to change the gasket, you wouldn't change the rings unless they were worn out or damaged. ...and if you did need new rings, 2 complete sets from Total Seal wouldn't set you back much more than £100 IIRC?. http://www.performanceunlimited.co.uk/brands/total-seal-piston-rings/ Steve R
Go for good quality bearings and watch the speed (rpm) ratings on the bearings. SKF explorer bearings usually have extra rollers / balls for greater load bearing. Also be sure you get the correct running clearance, So the bearing does not crowd the rolling elements when it heats up. You can look up bearing info on the SKF website, I do not work for SKF. I am a retired mechanical engineer with years experience in sizing and fitting bearings.
Engine is booked in at race engineering for the 19th next month. From reviews they know there stuff. But I will mention it to them and thank u for the heads up.
