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Oil Cooler Pipes

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by ck_uk, Apr 2, 2019.

  1. What's the best way to restore the metal ends on these pipes? Dremel?
    I imagine they aren't cheap to replace with new, they function fine but are in a state.

    Oil cooler itself needs blasting I think..

    IMG_7673.JPG IMG_7674.JPG IMG_7675.JPG IMG_7676.JPG
     
  2. For the hose connections - Dremel wire brush etc.......and then aluminium paint (or black stone chip spray).

    For the oil cooler - Patience, careful wire brushing........aluminium spray paint.

    Aluminium paint - the type used for steel car wheels........brush or spray.

    I think most blasting could cause problems with the matrix of the cooler.
     
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  3. Soda blast on the oil cooler may be ok, but the fins are very fragile. I agree wire wheel on a dremel for the hoses
     
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  4. Are the pipes that expensive ?

    I’m sure when I had the 916 one of the pipes was leaking and I had a new one made at a local car air con place.
     
  5. Iirc, they are about 30-40 each
     
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  6. Seem to remember (it was 10-15 years ago though) local Ducati dealer quoted me about £90 for the replacement pipe for the 916.
    Think I paid other place about £20 to make one up.
     
  7. blast the tanks on the cooler but just leave the fins be. when you spray it just give the fins a light pass. They're going to be back to their original state within a couple of rides anyhoo.
    Other than that... what Arq said.
     
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  8. Sorry to drag this one on, and thanks for all the replies.

    I'd like to achieve the following, and searching around for something similar, came across the following. Just wondering whether it's feasible to buy a kit like this, and just make up some new hoses?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-1m-10AN-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Engine-Oil-Fuel-Line-Hose-Fitting-End-Adapter/223464256574?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l9372

    upload_2019-4-3_21-52-5.png

    Also, what are the opinions on having the oil cooler mounted high rather than low?
    I guess it's just personal preference but are there any benefits, apart from raising it above the 'line of fire' from tyre debris?

    If you wanted to keep it low mounted, could a 'baffle/gauze' be fitted in front to protect the fins from crud etc? But would that also reduce the airflow to the cooler significantly, enough to impede it's performance?

    upload_2019-4-3_21-59-33.png
     
  9. Give Pirtek a ring and get them to quote.
     
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  10. mounting the cooler higher will allow it to get better airflow to an extent.
    There's precious little flow behind that wheel and also it's got a dirty great exhaust pipe toasting the area - which you avoid if mounting it higher.
    You'll need to get a couple of rocker cover gaskets and maybe a new cover for the top as if I remember correctly the casting on the underslung cover might foul - but give it a try, it's a long time since I did the mod.


    Honestly, if your lines are good, there's no need to go down the after market route other than because you want to.
    The pipes you need are AN-6 if you want to go this aftermarket route.

    As an alternative, you could look to use a 999 / 1098/1198 cooler.
    the feed and return are both on the same side making the pipe routing nice and short.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. I have an 848 cooler on mine. Ill take a pic. Its got a homemade mesh cover. I upgraded as its got High comps. Its still low mounted
     
  12. Although my 750ss had the higher mounted oil cooler, I did investigate if it could be mounted in the lower position by flipping the rocker covers over - it could. I imagine it could be done the same on a 900.

    But.........with the higher mounted cooler, it is an absolute bastard to get to the carbs idle and balance screws. (includes burned forearm).
     
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  13. That is really tidy Sev. And those pipes make a real difference, visually.
     
  14. Harpic MAX Power 10. rub neat on the rusty bits and agitate with a scouring pad (like for a nonstick frying pan). Once the rust starts to come off and you are seeing clean metal come through, rinse off the Harpic and dry it off (you may want a couple of attempts with this).

    Then the use of a soft wire brush in a Dremel (I bought a load from ebay and they are dirt cheap) and remove the residues and any other oxidisation. As the Harpic removes oil and grease, you will be surprised how clean the surfaces come up.

    Same engine and pipes - Just cleaner! (Engine was fully rebuilt and the surfaces Cerakoted).
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #16 Bridgland, Apr 4, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2019
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  15. Wow....that. is fucking awesome!
     
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