Oil Temperature On Digital Dash

Maybe not relevant to your application but the digital read out of the coolant temperature on my Supersport reads LOW until it gets to around 47ºC. The MTS and the ST4s were the same.

 

My RS dash reads the oil temp as ambient when the engine is cold. As an aside. I fitted the sensor into the oil suction, as I thought that there was little flow past the point where yours is located.

 

I drilled and tapped the removable oil screen that screws into the bottom of the sump. Shows the temperature going to the pump and cooler, shows around 110C on a hot day at Almeria, with a water temp of 75C

 

Ive seen those lines and sensors on Ebay and couldnt believe the cost. I would be interested to see your finished solution

 

Ian.

My Farringdon race dash (bike engine race car) sensors did not drop down below 34 deg c.
I called them and they said it was normal for their kit but no explanation. I know 3 or 4 others with the same kit, same low reading. Not sure if it is the range of the sensor? Not cheap kit either.




It was not that way with the Stack dash I had with an older set up.
As long as you test calibration via hot cup, thermometer as you have....
It's good to know when it's cold but better to know from 70 to 130 I guess.

Obviously, this is probably not relevant to a Ducati motor... but hey, how many threads don't go a bit off topic.

The Jap 1000cc iL4's we raced wet sump would get up to 120 deg oil. These are under full throttle much more than a Pro Superbike and more stressed. But, Would still last a season, Roughly 2 hours, a 3 day race weekend inc testing... probably 24 hours a season. Oil changes every race weekend.

Wet sump, were never at the sharp end though (remember cars with areo corner much faster, and the motors stay flat, they don't lean so the oil does not stay at the bottom of the sump in corners) So only really worked on the less powerful early motors. Lap times were 2 sec's faster after 2005, 175 bhp era, 200 with tuning.
Then required chassis updates, some parts started to fail as they are engineered to be light..

We ran dry sump and these ran around 80 degs on oil, although, obviously highly modified... we blocked rads on cold days, and we didn't have the oil/water heat exchanger system some bikes have.

Oil rad is the one visible below, the tall filler cap at the rear, is the dry sump oil tank. The vertical small alloy tank to the left, is one that stays constantly full of fuel (swirl pot). The fuel big tank, is what the driver (me) rests on... with a bit of alloy sheet as a firewall, the angle of the tank was roughly like lying down with something under your back..
Arse 45mm from the tarmac. The fuel tanker filler is in front of the exhaust headers. The car below I rebuilt, after having the chassis altered. The motor in it, was rebuilt by a top 10 road racer.



Power : 170+/-bhp at wheels
Rpm: 13'000+
Weight : 320 kg - dry weight
Power/Weight : 523 bhp/ton
0-60mph : 3 secs<
Top speed : 150mph
(not our data)

We had to get the dry sump kit from the factory. So this may be BS, but we were told, their engine builder (not one I used). Said... above 120 deg C on oil, the motors on the Dyno started to lose BHP as much as 10HP.
99% of the grid were dry sump. Cooling was always a big thing, because everyone was trying to find a little bit of extra pace. They checked ECU's and dyno'd the car's and sealed the engines eventually to stop cheating.

I do know from my own data, oil pressure started out about 60-80 psi on tick over at ambient, 16psi on tick over when up to 80 deg c on oil. It went up quickly with throttle, to 80+ psi at high RPM.
This was true on the R1 03 era (wet sump) and the Gsxr1000 K6, dry sump all using standard oil pumps in the engine.
Using 10w 50 on wet sump, and 10w 40 on dry sump from memory.



Fuel pressure on our motors was around 45psi from memory.
Constant even under hard throttle, again we ran a very modified system, with a low pressure pump from a big tank into a small tank, with a return out the top (swirl pot). Then a high pressure pump to injector rail from the small tank, with a manual fuel regulator, return to the swirl pot... to prevent fuel starvation, necessary due to much higher corner speeds which cause starvation.

We never did run bigger injectors, or higher pressure because we were only allowed to tune so far... no race cams. Just machining... cam timing and a electronic de-restriction.

Too much money in car racing, people could effectively just out spend other competitors if regs were open.
Which is kind of interesting as these cars, were faster in the factory, one make series with stricter regs, due to the drivers, some who do go on to be professionals, vs the same cars not in the factory championship.. with open regs and more power with different drivers. A few of the older guys went to race in other series and were much more competitive. That was my plan but it never happened.

 

Wasn't suggesting it was normal. Just seen it before..

I think it was a fob off but they were a great company to deal with and kit was very good. They obviously know more than I do.

I guess these work on resitance which varies the voltage?

I'm sure you will sort it. Are you connecting fuel pressure and oil pressure?

 

Off the subject I know, but what is that in the oil filler hole??

 

Hi Ian (@bettes )

I was wondering as I looked at the photos several times and couldn't see the filter, I thought it just be me losing it.

The filter you referred to is

http://kandpengineering.com/product-catalog/s5-2/

I had one lying around and Ian liked them, so I donated for the price of a few macchiatos, which Ian shells out for when he's up here

I'm also running one in a Guzzi.

From what I read the claimed filtration is not as small as the consumable paper filters BUT the particle removal is a lot more consistent.

My take is they are absolutely fine as long as they are cleaned thoroughly, hence Ultrasonic bath.

Cue now long & heated debate on the pros and cons (but all probably cons) of these filters & how these are the seed of Satan and will destroy your engine if you so much as have one in the vicinity of a motorcycle.

I'm gettin ma coat, I just don't wanna go there

John