Hello all. Pani V4 Those that have fitted the Ducati race fairings, do all the plastic infill pieces need to be fitted back too? Do I just swap the shift lever position to the bottom bolt to change to race shift on the standard pegs? What front paddock stands are people using? I would prefer an under yoke stand. The Ducati front fork stands look like they go in the bottom of the forks but on the V4s (21) there are no holes. Thanks.
Unfortunately I paid someone to fit my Ducati track fairings so I didn't see what was done. I thought the track kit had everything that was required and fitted straight on but can't be certain. I also had fitted aftermarket rear sets so can't answer that question either Andy
It does, including front and rear blanks for the headlight and taillight, and electrical bypass / adapters for the sidestand and taillight (not needed for the headlight). if you’re fitting 2020 fairings (with winglets) on a 2018 bike you’ll also need adapters to fit the wider upper side fairings and a new screen (2018 screen doesn’t fit in 2020 front fairing). as far as reverse shift is concerned, the electronics figure it out, no need to change any settings.
Sorry, I’m not sure what you mean by plastic infills. Perhaps you’re referring to the fact that the 2018 upper side fairings consist of 2 pieces per side. Both pieces need to be removed and replaced with a single piece per side. there is no dashboard error when you disconnect the indicators that are integrated into the mirrors. I think there may be a fault code if you plug into a diagnostic tool.
Hi. I meant the black plastic around the key and the ones on the sides that it hooks into, toward the front fairing, plus the plastics under the yoke around the horn area. Basically all the black plastic bits that are on the bike for aesthetic purposes and to cover bits like the coolant res etc. Anyway I fitted the fairings with the headlight and tail light blanks but I have the triangle (generic warning light) remaining permanently on. Any ideas? Bike is a 2021
You need an additional rose joint. When it comes to front paddock stand, make sure you get enough lift height to roll your front wheel out. Mine caught on the front mudguard (FullSix) and I had to pad up the lift points about 12mm. You may be ok with whatever set up got, just check
I managed to get a headlight stand that works, just about clears the fairing if it’s in the right place. Are you saying that if you drop the gearshift to the bottom linkage for race shift you need an additional rose joint? Do you know which part it is?
I can’t remember, but if you go on the Reactive Parts website they have the kit. Then YouTube is your friend I’ve always used front paddock stands that lift on the brake callipers. Other configurations have always struck me as too fiddly. You’ll probably be ok. Maybe it was my front mudguard that created havoc…
Ok gotcha, retained all of those myself. No problem removing the ones covering the coolant expansion tanks and possibly the one around the key but I think the one around the yoke and horn area may be more than aesthetic, it has spring loaded flaps which seem designed to channel airflow towards the radiator rather than having it forced up into the cockpit area. Did you fit the electrical bypass / blank for the taillight?
