just out of interest, has anyone here checked, fixed or had a problem with this? On my Monster1200, the batt would only last a couple of days before lacking the power to start it. It was a second hand bike, under warranty and they fixed it by finding out that it had a fitted usb charger that used continuous power. Now I have a DVT Multi that I have had starting issues with. I have checked it today with an ammeter and am pretty confident I am right in finding it is using 73 mA when the key is off. According to the attached, it should only be 2.5 mA approx. Anyway the following is interesting and is a service bulletin from Ducati. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10055610-4500.pdf
yip, way to high. i would expect 3milli amp max nearer 1. i guess you could pull one fuse at a time while checking current draw, this will at least narrow down the circuit you are looking for, do these bikes have a time latch relay? are you letting the current settle down after say, 30secs after switch off or every time you reconnect the battery circuit.
If a keyless fuel cap is fitted, then this might be the case, as it unlocks on switch off and stays unlocked for 20 - 30 seconds before locking. I don't know of any other circuits which might stay on for a limited period after the bike is switched off.
generally the various ECU 's are speaking to each other for anything up to a minuet after switch off. (time latch).
Ok so to test it I just disconnected the batt neg terminal and put the ammeter in series there. So when you connect it up, the reading goes off the scale momentarily then settles to 73ish mA mark. So no, I havent had it connected for prob more than 10 sec. However my next step is to do the methodical fuse pull scenario..hoping it doesnt turn out to be a dodgy ecu or similar...
You were spot on about the gubbins all talking to each other finm. With the key off and batt neg terminal disconnected, I put the ammater there and it sat at around 73mA for about a minute followed by a couple of secs of haywire then right down to less than 1mA. During the higher draw period, I pulled all the fuses 1 by 1 to see where the draw was going and it was going to the instrument panel only. (Fuse) So now I am happy that there is nothing dodgy happening there when it is sitting in the garage waiting. So, off to see if I can't fix my dodgy S4R electric woes now!
