Oh omniscient Forum is it possible to do this? Can they be masked off to protect them? If not where can I get replacement ones from? TIA
Do you mean this kind of thing? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-9...159439?hash=item34090d334f:g:22cAAOSwuMZZEF5O
You should be able to mask them off ok. Obvs dont forget to mask off any threads and joint surfaces as well Buy some replacement stickers just in case before going ahead though...... Pics as you go too please.
Frame stickers are unlikely to be saved when powder coating because of the heat involved, 200 deg to cure in most cases. Steve
Exactly that kind of thing Pete. I'm presently being told it's 'impossible' but I'm sure I read in other threads on here how it can be done so as to preserve the original VIN sticker. Maybe I'll just have to buy some repro ones and accept I'll lost the originals
Bearing in mind Steve's (@Birdie) response above it looks like they'll be toast, and I presume powder coating not painting is the way to go on frames?. On a related matter, I'm presuming there must be a code for the satin bronze Ducati were using in the 1990's? I guess I'll be asked for that information from whomever does it over here. Does anyone know what it is please? On a further related matter, does anyone know what the colour code is/was for Ducati yellow from the 90's as well please? Having sorted the mild scratches on a couple of my body panels I need to have them re-sprayed. I did order a rattle can (Fly Yellow) and some lacquer from RS Paints but I'm not happy with the results.
controversial re: powdercoat but from me. Good luck with the Bronze bit, hope others can help - I struggled (and failed) last time I attempted to match original. Re: yellow - Broom yellow comes to mind?
IME the exact colours for both the yellow and the frame bronze varied all over the place over the years. The yellow also depends which colour they were painted over in the factory. For decent results with a partial respray or to keep it looking close to original, colour matching is better than buying to a code.
Thanks Sev, I had some mild corrosion on some of the welds of the frame though which I removed, treated, then touched up with satin bronze and matt lacquer from RS paints. However, on close inspection there's a slight difference in colour between that which RS paints sent me (correct paint for model & year) and the rest of the frame, I'm assuming due to some fading on a 20 year old frame. In an ideal world I'll send the frame away to be repainted or powder coated, hence the question in the thread.
True, my fairings and nose cone are injection moulded yellow under the paint, my seat unit is injection moulded red under the yellow paint and before anyone comments, yes it's original as I'm the only owner of the bike
Due to the transparent nature of yellow, it’s good practice on repairs to have a white primer or ground coat applied before the yellow. Then the amount of yellow coats will vary the colour.
My rather limited experience (one powder coated frame) is that whilst it is a thicker coating it does not seem to be as resilient to knocks as a good paint job. Whilst rebuilding my Monster with a powder coated frame you inevitably catch a spanner or drop something and my frame now shows quite clearly where these occurred. I have re-built a few bikes (10 at least) and rattle canned the frames and never had this issue before. Also with a painted finish it is very easy to repair any accidents.
I used to work where we had thousands of parts (mainly Aluminium-alloy extrusions) powder coated using Trimite & other Polyester powders. Things at Trimite have changed a bit since, but the chemistry, etc does not seem to have changed much. We used to do a coin test on the finished product, which involved trying to dig a 2p coin edge into/along the coating to test its durability. Poorly applied powder or badly prepared parts would chip & flake; good stuff would result in shaving some of the coating off but still intact. There a lot of reasons for poor-quality powder coating (prepararion, application, oven temp/time, etc). The link is to a modern Trimite page - note the tests that are done and the possibility/recommendation of a precoat. Note also that this is an interior coating. Colours in my day were limited to RAL or BS colours and (unless there are specialists nowadays) no way of mixing powders to get 'your' colour unless you buy a bespoke batch. Oh, and the metal has to be completely grit blasted back to bare metal so no high-street anti-rust treatments. A good-quality oven-cured wet paint would be easier to colour match and retouch I reckon... As stated - I'm no expert on current techniques so please correct me! If you have local painters/coaters get walking and talking to see what they say. //www.trimite.com/product/epoxy-polyester-powder-coating-aerospace-grade-pa8000/
