Easiest way is to remove the pedal with the master cylinder and then split it that way. Early bikes use a slightly different brake pin and return spring mechanism which is no longer available so do not lose or damage any parts or you will have to convert the pedal to the later action as per that of the 998's etc. Remove bolts 2 and 9 and then with the mechanism off the bike remove bolts number 11. The screen shot below is for a 998 so your return mechanism will be different if it is an earlier bike. To "upgrade" you need parts 4, 13 and the return spring. This does make the pedal return better when the job is done. Don't overtighten bolt 9 when reassembling or the pedal won't return properly if at all and then the rear brake will stick on and the brakes could overheat and burn out the pads and caliper seals. Make sure you have the correct free play in the pedal as if it sticks the above could happen. I had a rear caliper catch fire once!!! when the brake stuck on whilst doing a trackday, I only found out when a marshal flagged me down and was about to put the flames out with an extinguisher! the pads disappeared completely with only the metal backing plates left, amazingly the disc survived with only slight discolouration. I needed a new rear caliper.
Nothing is easy is it! The smaller of the big bolts that holds the holder on was really tough to unbolt. It cracked when I first unscrewed it so I thought it was thread lock. Found couple of small shavings in the thread. Gone to put it back in with the thread all clean and it is really hard to do up. I think either the thread has been crossed or the bolt is the wrong pitch. I've not forced it. Not really sure what to do. Its bolt #2 on the diagram above. Might try and get a replacement bolt so at least I know I am putting the right one in.
I've checked and I'm 95% sure the bolt is right. Gone at it with a hair dryer (to soften any thread lock) and brake/clutch cleaner. Went in and out, in and out, in and out giving it a quarter turn more each time and I think I'm there. Going to torque it up now. I am right this is the Rear Brake Cylinder "Mounting Bracket Bolt" and "Pedal Pivot Bolt"? Is it always tough putting a bolt back in where there was thread lock before?
If they have never been touched and there has been a lot of daily use in poor conditions at times then they can be very difficult to remove. Use a thread chaser as it cleans better than a tap which tends to take too much off the thread. If the worst comes to the worst use a time sert or helicoil or other thread repair system and redo the thread. I had to do this on my own 748R engine due to the stand becoming loose and the previous owner not noticing it was damaging the thread in the case.
It's OK, think I'm there. All torqued up now. Snapped the little bolt that adjusts the pedal height :Banghead: but I have a spare.
