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Rear Brake Problem

Discussion in 'Newbies Hangout' started by Brodders, Dec 14, 2019.

  1. Ducati Multistrada 1200S – 2011, 24,000 miles

    Hi All

    First time on today and still trying to get the hang of of it all. I have a 1200S 2011 Multistrada and love it and have no intentions of replacing it anytime soon but I just have an ongoing issue with the rear brake that I would really like to resolve.

    During the spring to autumn riding season the rear brake becomes totally ineffective over a period of say 4 to 6 weeks. I have had the brake cylinder replaced but that hasn’t helped so have to revert to re-bleeding the brake fluid, using high grade race quality fluid, every time I really need the rear brake to be working, e.g. before a decent ride out or the MOT. However, after a few weeks the brake has faded to be totally ineffective again.

    I’m not that mechanically minded unfortunately but my theory is that there is a design fault with this particular model year and that the fluid is getting too hot with the end result being that the rear brake becomes ineffective.

    Am I barking up the wrong tree? Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did they resolve it?

    Any help very gratefully received, thanks, Brodders.
     
  2. Welcome.

    this is a known problem believed to be caused by the fluid boiling as a result of the brake line passing too close to the catalist.

    The brake fluid of choice seems to be Motul 660 for its high boiling point. Bleeding the caliper is a Pain as the wheel needs to come off together with the hugger and raise the caliper to seat height to make sure air gets to the nipple.

    This works on my 2014 Mts, I now just bleed it once a year.

    TB
     
  3. Thanks very much TB. I seem to have to bleed it at least two or three times per year but I haven’t tried Motul 660 before though I certainly will now.

    Many thanks.

    Brodders
     
  4. Welcome @Brodders:upyeah:. What TB says ^^ appears to be the common consensus but IMO it’s more due to ingress of air or water.
     
  5. Ducati = crap rear brake
     
  6. no, you're barking up the right tree - it is a bit of an embarrassment but it's something most owners decide to live with (but shouldn't have to). The earlier air-cooled version is just as bad, i've got bored of doing the whole caliper removal trick and manage to get a half-decent pedal back after 5 minutes bleeding via aftermarket bleed nipple fitted to m/cylinder.

    As usual, there is controversy over the best method but here's another guide or two:-
    http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/indexaa3d.html?fa=contentGeneric.qgntgwplktwyjcps&pageId=2720411
     
  7. welcome brodders
     
  8. Welcome Dave
     
  9. Gonna get confusing.
    Welcome.
     
  10. Everything said not withstanding, another reason is the position of the ABS unit.... I'll get you some links.
     
    #11 AirCon, Dec 15, 2019
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 16, 2019
    • Like Like x 2
  11. I said there was controversy, and that’s why I didn’t volunteer a definitive cause, I don’t agree that the main reason is the position of the ABS unit Paul, heat soak is heat soak and the master cylinder and all its lines are still not immune to this, contributing to the problem just as much, if not more, in my opinion.
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  12. Accepted and edited.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Welcome to the forum
     
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