newish bike (regd 12/2013) with the following changes: - cat removed and QD system installed - heatshield for master cylinder fitted - brembo serie oro disc fitted - bleed nipple fitted on abs pump - system bled with RBF600 (I think - I know I did the front, but have a doubt over whether I did the rear now with RBF600, or just topped it off after fitting the nipple) On the trip last week I started out with a firm pedal, worked a treat. After 2 days of doing lots of 1st/2nd gear fairly challenging riding in pretty hot temps, and not using the rear brake that often, the rear pedal travel went long. After a couple more days the pedal was full travel to get it to do anything, although a couple of pumps would get some action out of it. So my conclusion is, none of the above has done bugger all to help avoid the long pedal (in this case). Once its presumably developed air and starts going, its going. We shall see what happens once I've flushed it and rebled it again with RBF600...
After a couple more days the pedal was full travel to get it to do anything, although a couple of pumps would get some action out of it. at which point youd pump it up again n bleed it again. can often take several attempts to get all air out of system if done the standard way,sometimes over days to get perfect if air is trapped.dont understand the problem,sorry. personally i reverse fill the system with a large syringe(bottom up in through the bleed nipple) always works bang on for me.:Smug:
If that lot doesn't fix it, it's hard to see what will? Thankfully I gave up on the back brake over 3 years ago, so other than storing it with a weight on the pedal, I always expect it not to work, so I am never disappointed!
Gregotch, bleeding the brakes at a hotel each night when on tour and when there is beer waiting is not ideal This was a post to report my findings from the previous trip. I think (hope !) I didn't put better fluid in. The brake had been fine for the previous 2k miles for normal riding in uk spring temperatures. This just goes to show that even with everything done, it's still possible to lose the rear brake pedal. Getting rid of the cat as had previously been thought didn't fix it this time.
I'm on my 4th rear brake bleed. Standard 11 plate and heat shield. Worst r/brake ever had the miss-fortune to use. I know some people are happy with just a f/brake but the bike comes with 2 so wonder who passed that pathetic excuse for a rear at the factory. I ride all year round and at some times rear braking is a must on our crap roads. Ask a GP/WSB rider if they'd mind having a Multistrada r/brake when they go racing?
yeh sorry jon,apears your particular bike/model is a bit of a duffer, rear brake wise, looking at others experiences. hard to beleive for that money something so essential is so ineffective. if it was a car or truck it would be recalled or even banned from the road i reckon. wonder what the liability claims will be if you plough into a car or pedestrain n kill them and its proven you have no worthwhile rear brake. i certainly wouldnt allow a pillion on the back thats for sure.
Still on my 2010 machine: I really don't want to trade Öhlins for Sachs. Have had every mod offered and have bled it more times than I care to think - the fluid goes mucky in minutes, which is about the same time it takes to lose all effectiveness. So I see that not much has changed. Passed it's MoT a few weeks ago, with me standing full weight on the rear brake pedal…
Non existent. If the rear brake is the difference between making it and not making it, things have already gone badly wrong elsewhere.
Something isn't right here. Gentle pressure on mine can lock the back wheel and make the abs operate. I've purchased rbf600, not yet installed (no need). Clean rear disk, good pads and bled at abs point....good rear brake.
I'm still on the original pads and a have a full Termi, so no cat, but have fitted a bleed nipple at the ABS unit, a heat shield and changed the fluid to a high spec DOT 5.1. It's better but I have to put my full weight on the pedal to get the ABS to kick in. Even fully adjusted upwards the pedal is just too low to get a decent pressure on it while my foot is on the footrest. For me, if the pedal was 1/2" higher it would make a big difference.
Have a low side on the right should sort it. Every time I have come off like that I always end up with a bent upwards rear brake pedal LOL
ACT, I assume there is no point bleeding at the caliper once this ABS mod is done? I just ordered the nipple out of curiosity (bit bored and it is cheap ). My pads were switched to HH and high temp fluid was put in (albeit 2 years ago), which helped, but I still rely on hanging a weight on the pedal, which gives me about a half day or so of firm pedal feel. Not expecting to burst the rear tyre, but would like a consistent firm pedal and hope this does it?
From memory I believe the biggest issue was cleaning (solvent) the disk and new pads (HH). I did hang the calliper so the nipple was at the top bled it until new fluid, then put back on and bled at the ABS unit. Now I just bled it at the ABS unit. I'm always surprised how much air comes out (compared to the front). As I've said many times before the ABS unit is the highest point in the circuit. Have you tried turning off the ABS and then used the rear brake? Does it feel any different...just wondering if the abs is kicking in without indicating. One more question. How do you "cycle the ABS motor" during bleeding? I assume it's ignition on, engine running. Both wheels up, spin both wheels to clear ABS test light, then with front wheel spinning (fast), then apply rear brake softly while slowly turning the rear wheel. I cannot think how else you can get this motor to operate.
Well, I have done the mod to the rear brake, but without going for a proper 1/2 day ride out, I can't tell if the mod will keep the pedal firm "forever", but fingers crossed? I did manage to activate the ABS (pedal banging, but no warning lights?) and the bike will slow/hill hold, but it still doesn't feel as if it has any "bite", must be down to pads/disc/dirt? A couple of points to note for anyone having a go; The bolts & nipple assembly from the eBay link in the original thread (Powerhouse) are a bit longer than the ones ACT has and stick about 38/39mm above the ABS unit face. So, they do dig into the seat. I cut out a bit of the foam pad, but the new dust cap is showing slight damage (you can just see it) so a hole through the seat base is required (I think Derek pointed this out before?) so as not to load up the bolt assembly? Also, those £25 Chinese "Sealey-a-like" vac pump kits are rubbish! Not so much the pump itself, but the hoses and adapters don't get near to providing a seal on the nipple, so you just spend ages sucking air and fluid, but not knowing if it is system air or bleed nipple/hose connection bypass? I ended up putting some fuel hose clips on and reverting to the old pedal pump option (need a hand to do the caliper, unless you are double jointed!) - at least then you can see the fluid pumping out with or without air in it! Be interesting to see how long it takes for it to "go off" again, before requiring another bleed and also what affect not cycling the ABS has?
Even the proper Sealey unit is completely useless, got the compressor powered one, it has never sealed properly yet on the bleed screws on any car or bike. I always go back to either my Gunsons easy bleeder or my Vizibleed tube with a valve on the end. Both do the job properly.
A quick update. i found time yesterday to take a look. Clearly I had not replaced the fluid, so it was on the original stuff. I cracked the bleed nipple on the ABS pump and no fluid... I actually removed the banjo bolt and there was no fluid. Totally stunned that there was this much air in the system. I refitted the banjo / bleed nipple and started pumping new fluid through from the master cylinder. I have never ever seen stuff come out looking like this did. it was more of an emulsion than a fluid, absolutely filled with tiny air bubbles. And the colour looked like dark treacle. I will finish bleeding right through to the caliper tonight, and maybe then I will have a decent brake back. I have no idea what fluid they put in the bikes now (its dark in colour from day 1) but it looks shite.
Mine was the same, bolt out and not even the slightest leak of fluid? Can't be some sort of ignition driven valve though, otherwise you wouldn't be able to pump the new fluid through and out? I replaced mine with all I had, which is Putoline Dot 4, but I'm sure the orangey stuff in it was Race fluid of some type? I have a trip to Normandy this weekend, so if it all turns to rats-hit, I will order some of that Motul 600 stuff when I get back.
Do you have the link for these banjo bolts plz. I don't know if there the 10x1.00mm or the 3/8 unf thread?
I was going to suggest may be you need to fit an anti heat transfer pad between the piston and pad. you find on small disks that the heat up very fast and over heat the pad this transfers through to the piston and then fluid. may be that's why they only last a few rides before it needs bleeding again
