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V4 Removing Rear Wheel...

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by JoePeps, May 12, 2020.

  1. ...on your own?

    Anyone got any tips? Up to now I've only managed it if I've got the bike in gear with someone sat on it and rear brake on full. If it's on the side stand in gear I just end up lifting the bike up or it pulling towards me!

    Not sure if I'm missing something obvious?!
     
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  2. I just bought a brand new breaker bar as I was nearly snapping my old one! There must be a way without resorting to electrickery?
     
  3. Honestly? Just buy a wrench. Transformational. I think I paid about £35 for mine, same as the link.
     
    • Disagree Disagree x 1
  4. I've just had the joys of this. I normally undo both rear nuts a couple of times a year so they don't get seized on. Daughter sits on the bike in gear and on the brakes. Wife (a chunk) sits on the pillion seat. Breaker bar and a large scaffold pole, mega effort but they both eventually came undone. I think next payday I will be buying a impact gun, buggered about for years struggling.

    IMG_20200505_110626.jpg
     
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  5. Not saying it isn't but just surprised there's not a method of doing it with just a breaker bar. Probably be the way to go then cheers.
     
  6. @doggy post is the other way, leverage.
    Always felt a bit brutal to me.
     
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  7. You need to buy a bigger breaker bar! My old one is bigger than that and flexes about 20 degrees before the nut will spin off, I'm terrified of it snapping and taking a chunk out the wheel so bought a 1m long proper 3/4", only £25. Using that reducer isn't the best either so I'm told.
     
  8. The leverage isn't the problem, I'm plenty strong enough to crack it in my sleep but the engine turns without the rear brake applied and some weight on the bike, hence needing the extra person.
     
  9. I have used an ABBA stand with ratchet strap down to the base of the stand to hold rear brake on before the days of ekectrickery. That worked. But why bother when it’s so much easier to cheat?
    upload_2020-5-12_22-30-23.jpeg
     
  10. Haha ok ok I concede!!
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  11. Impact gun comes straight off
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  12. This wheel nut set up seems to have been a problem for some for the last 12 yrs or so.
    Same torque for 1098, multistrada, pani etc. Had them all, never used a rattle gun yet.
    Bike on sidestand. Foot on brake and use a decent length 3/4" drive breaker bar. (1m or over).
     
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  13. IIRC the book recommended torque allows for + / - 10% so torquing towards lower limit makes taking nut off easier.

    TB
     
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  14. Just be a bit careful when using a ‘gun. The first time I used mine, I spun the nut right off the spindle, and the wheel very nearly followed it off. Not good when the bike is just on the side-stand. Now I mark the socket with a piece of tape so that I can see as the nut starts to turn. As soon as it does that, I stop using the ‘gun and swap to a bar.
     
    • Useful Useful x 2
  15. if your struggling, then i found that the best solution was to put the bike on a trailer or in the van, and strap it down.
    this stops all the force or vibration going though the bike/ Chain if you are using an impact driver, and also stops any slop in the brake drive chain etc.
    i have had issues in the past with a 996, and after a couple of sessions on track i couldn't get the rear wheel nut off, even though i use a torque wrench set to 150 Nm.
    strapped down and rear wheel compressed, not gear selected of brake pushed the nut would come undone on the first or second hit of the impact wrench.
     
  16. I broke my back getting rear ended by a BMW in Oct last year and have been off work since recovering. I could barely move the bike around the garage in Feb but I wanted to remove the buckled rear wheel to properly assess it for repair or scrap. I used my second hand Clarke impact gun from ebay similar to the one Jack has linked to with the bike on a paddock stand. The nut was off in 2 seconds, it took longer to get the impact gun out of its box and plug it into an extension lead. At the time I was just about able to lift the wheel off the seat due to the loss of core strength from the injury and protracted recovery.
    Don't waste time with a breaker bar it is more likely to slip and screw the nut up.
     
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    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  17. I'm sure this recurring problem isn't the bike design being faulty. People who take their wheels off regularly don't seem to have problems, it's just when some caveman does it up with an impact gun to 1000f/lbs. Agree with these guys, get an impact gun with about 450nm power, (not any less). But tighten the nut back up YOURSELF with a torquewrench, to factory spec.
     
    #20 V4Missile, May 13, 2020
    Last edited: May 29, 2020
    • Agree Agree x 4
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