Hi, during my 1994 900SS restoration this happened - dont ask how! :-( Does anyone have any advice whether you think this could be successfully brazed back on or not (not by me, maybe I could find a brazing workshop), or any other suggestions rather than brazing? Thanks, Pete
Someone should be able to weld that - preferably someone specialising in Aluminium welding. It'd need thorough cleanup & degrease, plus exterior paint removal from the area.
I suppose its worth a try. Probably cheaper than searching for a old casing on ebay. Hope this isnt a daft question but what should I tell a welding company that the casings are actually made of, or just basically 'Aluminium Alloy' of some unknown composition? Cheers
My guess is that it's AlSi10Mg (tell them 'Aluminium-Silicone-10') - a very common casting alloy. Someone might chime in with more certainty...
Call me old fashioned but welding may distort the casing due to heat, I'd be inclined to expect to scrap it - but ask around those that have done it for reassurance. Good luck
Most of the covers on eBuy are off later or smaller capacity bikes, so don’t have the two connections for the oil feeds to the barrels.
A good welder would be able to tig that, minimal heat, may have to be flatted back after the welding just in case of distortion.
Thanks for the advice. Actually I was wondering about which alternative covers would fit my 900SS. I mean, whether any other models used the exact same fitment, maybe a 700SS or a Monster from that era? If I can only use a 900ss cover (1994 carbed model) it'll make finding one much harder and I may have to resort to finding a welder and hoping for the best.
‘93 and ‘94 M900 Monsters are the same as the 900SS engine. I think the M900 kept the external oil lines till ‘97? Anything water-cooled will have the impeller housing cast into them, so that rules out 888 or 916. Smaller bikes like the 600 or 750 didn’t have the external oil lines.
A mate once broke a bit off his alternator casing, a 748, by being too eager with a pry-bar before he had removed all the bolts. Being ex RAF he welded it himself in the fabrication place where he was working. I remember him saying that they bolted the casing to a piece of flat plate to help reduce the risk of distortion.
My chain snapped on the motorway on my 900ss ie a few years back and i had a sump protector on the sprocket cover however the chain managed to punch a hole in the side casing, i did ring about for welding the hole but turned out quite expensive so luckily got one on ebay off a 900ie monster for 40 quid, stripped the paint off and resprayed. It is cheaper to get a second hand one really.
Yes I saw that and also wondered about the missing oil pipe connectors. I think the ebay seller maybe assumed the 750 used the same case as the 900 - but after peoples' comments here I think that's wrong. Thanks
Can be welded, but aluminium has to be absolutely spotless clean for a successful weld. Wash off both faces with degreaser then isopropanol alcohol, when dry do not be tempted to touch the surfaces to be welded with your fingers. Remove the alternator stator before welding. As suggested bolt to a plate to keep the join as flat as possible, weld the outside edge then weld on the inside for additional strength. Check with a straight edge after all has cooled down in its own time, don’t quench it. And flat off with a smooth file, a bit of chalk rubbed on the file will help prevent the file clogging and scratching the surface. File a little then check so you don’t remove to much material.
