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1260 Running Temp

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by SteveE, Aug 2, 2020.

  1. I’m sure while I’ve had my 1260 it has never got very hot even on some of the hot days we’ve had this summer and after some spirited rides.

    However over the last few day, in traffic, the temp has reached 105 degrees then drifted back to 99 degrees before climbing to 105 and then falling back again.

    Rang the dealer and was told ‘perfectly normal’ and that the cooling fan doesn’t switch in until 103 degrees and switches back off I’m mid nineties. Also told that if the cooling fan were to fail it would only get to 117 degrees and not harm the engine.

    Over the last few days, while in traffic, I can feel the heat of the back cylinder under my inner thighs and can’t remember that happening before. Today’s outside temp was 26 degrees and it happened all the time in traffic.

    Anyone else with a 1260 had similar experience. Over 8,000 miles my previous 1200 DVT didn’t get this hot.
     
  2. Today's ride was at 32C, and saw 105C multiple times on the dash while at red traffic lights.
     
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  3. Although usually my 1260 runs at around 68°C in warm weather combined with town traffic (which I tend to avoid if possible) it can climb alsrmingly. The high temperature fan on/off cycle is perfectly normal.

    My MV was far worse and, in high temperatures and stationary traffic, would get to 116°C and then cut out with the ECU overtemp fail-safe.
     
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  4. Only time my DVT ever sees high temp is in town or traffic. Mostly 65-75 but creeps up occasionally.
    Ive often thought of trying waterless coolant as it simply can’t boil-up.
    Wonder if anyone on forum has tried it?
     
  5. On Friday was the first time I've used the Multi in heavy City traffic, lots of red lights etc.
    Normal running temps out of built up areas have been in the mid 60's. In traffic the temp on mine climbs to 103°C and the fans kick in.
    Also this was the first time I noticed the heat on my legs.

    Ally
     
  6. Normal; try to ride up to lights as late as possible if at major junctions. The fan only kicks in once it goes over 100°C+, mines usually nigh on 60degrees cruising.
     
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  7. Yep,mid high 60’s Normal then climbs rapidly in Stationary traffic.
     
  8. If money is no object, you could have the exhaust ceramically (Zirotec) coated to push heat out quicker. Which is what I did & I've even got my standard cat done at great expense if the next owner desires a more quieter adventure bike.
     
  9. Nor does normal coolant boil because it is under pressure. Waterless coolant has a much lower heat transfer capacity so could compound heat problems. Best leave it as Ducati designed it, and they also sell bikes in southern Italy where it gets very hot.
     
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  10. Is it only the 1260 that does this? Never noticed on my DVT in 8,000 miles
     
  11. Oh FFS. Not this again.

    If you want to go down the "waterless coolant" route, first find out exactly what the liquid consists of, what all its physical properties are, and how they differ from the properties of ordinary coolant (i.e. water and ethylene glycol 50/50).

    Do not accept bullshit and waffle from the fraudsters who peddle this stuff.
    If you don't know what you're buying, don't buy it.
     
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  12. Please ask them for specific heat details and remember how much energy is removed during boiling (failed mode on a cooling system) compared to a 1°C rise.
     
  13. Why are people getting het-up?
    I didn’t say I was going to use it. I said I’ve often thought of trying it.
    As it seems to be such an emotive subject there must be reason why.
    Anyways, to keep everyone happy and in keeping with characters from The Fast Show...

    “Today, I will mostly be using wowter.!”
     
  14. I have posted in 2016 and again in 2019 about "Evans Waterless Coolant".

    As far as I can discover, Evans' strategy is to replace the ordinary ethylene glycol (used mixed with water approx 60/40 in most antifreezes) with propylene glycol used neat, i.e. with no water. Nowhere do they clarify if this is the case though.

    • Propylene glycol is non-toxic enough to be used in food products, which is good.
    • It is more expensive, which is bad.
    • It is less able to transfer heat than water - bad.
    • It is less corrosive than water - good.
    • Since it has higher viscosity than ordinary coolant, it puts more demands on pumps - bad.
    • Since it allows engines to run at higher temperatures, it is likely to stress valves and gaskets etc. - bad,

    Unfortunately Evans' website is long on vague, boastful waffle and totally deficient in real facts and figures. Some of the characteristics claimed for their product are also characteristics of ordinary ethylene glycol, which they omit to mention. All things considered, I would require a lot more persuading before converting to their product.
     
  15. Given the problems with corrosion in early Multistrada cylinder heads I would use whatever Ducati recommend!
     
  16. They recommended the one that ate through the heads did they not :thinkingface:
     
  17. Try riding along Scarborough front in traffic. Legs on fire. Fan comes in & out. No problem with the bike though. Quite normal. At least the covid will not get you at that temp.
     
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  18. True they started with that, hence saying to use what they recommend now rather than risk something more corrosive
     
  19. Wish I’d read this before now, just come back home early for a ride out as I was sat in traffic and looked down to see 99 deg c, bloody hell turned round and came home to let it cool down and see what the cause was.
    Normal then eh, anyway gives me an excuse to go back out after tea tonight.
     
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