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Rusted Exhaust Nut Removal

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by West Cork Paul, Mar 26, 2020.

  1. All advice (sensible:)) welcome
    Monster 1100S MY09. I need to remove the horizontal exhaust in order to get at the cam belts but my nuts are rusty and seized, oh and different sizes:(. I suspect the apparent different sizes is due to corrosion eating away the surface of the nut. One is 10mm the other is c 9.5mm. I don't want to strip them obviously so have been extremely careful so far.

    How has anyone else dealt with this?

    TIA:upyeah:

    IMG_2506.jpg
     
  2. lots of WD40 for a good soak. Then heat with a gas torch and use hex socket.
     
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  3. I've previously removed similarly rusted nuts using a dremel cut off disc. Make a cut through the nut parallel to the stud so that the cut is just touching the tips of the threads. This will remove a section of the nut leaving a small section of the thread tips exposed. Then with a small chisel knock the newly cut edge in the unwind direction. The remnants of the nut invariably give way and come off leaving the stud virtually untouched. Getting access is usually the biggest problem.
     
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  4. Thanks Derek. That had occurred to me but I am trying to avoid that having had previous experience (with great difficulty) of doing exactly the same with a seized front sprocket on my 748:(. Probably it'll be a last resort:confused:
     
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  5. Ha! The nuts are tiny compared with your rear sprocket, you'd have no problem.
     
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  6. Paul, a single hex 3/8" socket may work (roughly equates to a 9.5mm socket) and for both of them do not use double hex (normal sockets) otherwise it will take the shoulders off. First attempt for me would be to heat them with a plumbers blow torch until the threads are clean and dry, a quick spray with WD40 then heat them again before the correct socket is used. Be prepared for the stud to come out first
     
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  7. I've had good experience using an imperial socket (on removing a nut that held on the read sprocket).
     
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  8. As per Denzil's advice, heat is your friend. You could try heating the cyl head around the stud as this may help it to expand enough to release its hold on the stud allowing you to either replace with a new stud or at least work on removing the nut away from the bike. Just don't get too ham fisted whatever you try, the studs are small and soft even when in good condition.
     
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  9. Go and thrash it for 1/2 hour - if your stopped tell em it's a necessary journey cos your nuts are seized, as soon as you get home pop em off while its' hot..
     
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  10. IMG_20200326_145040.jpg
    Yes, here's one that wound itself out of my 1098 when I took the exhaust off the other day.
     
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  11. You love it all really .... go on admit it !
    :)
     
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  12. Just posted this in another thread, these are brill for safe localised heat.
    4648C9C4-FD7B-42EB-B314-4032F9C10039.jpeg
     
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  13. Alternatively, Paul, you could just rub some Deep Heat on your nuts?
     
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  14. Step 1, Apply heat and penetrating fluid as advised.
    Step 2, Become impatient and try to undo with closest sized socket
    Step 3, After rounding of nut slightly on step 2 find smaller imperial socket and hammer it into place - round off nut completely and skin knuckles in process.
    Step 4, Swear and bemoan your outcast state
    Step 5, Resort to Dremel, destroy thread of stud in process
    Step 6, Swear and bemoan your outcast state to mates in pub who offer advice.
    Step 7, Take entire bike to mate with welder - he welds a new nut onto the stud so you can wind it out.
    Step 8, Stud snaps off in block (more blood sacrifice)
    Step 9, see steps 4 and 6.
    Step 10, Attempt to drill out stud - destroy thread in process
    Step 11, Cry
    Step 12, Remove engine from bike and take to specialist to remove remains of stud and tap new thread into block, supply custom stud.
    Step 13, Reassemble with plenty of copper-slip and make an oath never to let it happen again!

    Step 14, Ask @chizel how he’s getting with his swingarm pivot. :laughing:
     
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  15. How do you know???:D:D
     
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  16. Forget WD40, it’s a moisture displacer not a penetrating fluid, Plus Gas is the way to go

    That being said I’d cut that off using a dremel to slot the nut and a cold chisel to open it up. Failing that a pukka nut splitter if you can get one in there
     
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  17. Thanks all. I've got Transyl on it at the moment, will give it some heat tomorrow if I can find an old imperial socket.
    I do hope this thread doesn't turn into another 'seized socket' one:(
     
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  18. My Vespa is in a similar condition and I daren't touch the things. o_O
     
  19. Unfortunately I have to:(. It's the only way to get the cam belt covers off to replace the belts with those I bought from Exile in Feb 2019:confused:. I never did it last year:astonished:. Looking at the nuts & studs I'm thinking they've never been off:confused:
     

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