Had a search and can only find a thread that was resolved with a discovery of a knackered chain "Chain eccentric hard stop" New C and S fitted a few weeks ago and no problems till i went to adjust the chain at the weekend, wasnt that slack just needed a little nip up after a couple of thousand miles ....loosened everything off as normal and wouldnt move at all Up on centre stand to take the weight off the wheel and almost lifted the back off the ground and still wouldnt move....tried to loosen it and it moved a little but would only go back to point zero when i tried to tighten up. Been into local dealer that fitted the C and S and had it looked at while new MAP sensor fitted and the diagnosis is the circlip that holds the hub in on the wheel side has rusted onto the hub effectively seizing it from turning ?? .... the hub did have rust on it that i have seen while cleaning during winter (one part of the bike i cant risk applying ACF even with a brush as its so close to the disc and caliper). I use the bike 365 days a year and its just finished its second winter and on 25000 miles...they applied a load of lube around it and some force to make it move but further work needed Looks like i need to get into the hub to clean it all down with wire brush etc .....anyone had similar that i missed in search function ?
If it is gravel, a member of the German forum popped up at the time offering a fix. It was a plastic cover that fit over the hole in the swinging arm to stop gravel getting in. Can't remember his name but a search of the forum should find him.
Some bikes seem to have eccentrics which move around easily with little force needed to adjust chain tension ... and other bikes have tight eccentrics which require rather a lot of force to move. The feeble toolkit C-spanner is good enough for the former, but something more robust is needed for the latter.
I understand and accept that but mine was one of the easy movers and no problems in 20,000 miles....now it wont budge so i am looking forward to getting the back wheel off and getting into the assembly when i get the time
Mines tight, I have to spred the clamp a bit with a tyre leaver then it flys round, I think on some modles (the Fast! ones) the clamp dosent want to release when you undo the 2 pinch bolts. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it officer.
OK, how easy is it to remove the hub to clean out the swing arm, mine hasn't seized yet but I've ridden through some shocking weather and I'd like to clean it out before I fit the plug to the hole by the pivot? thanks
I removed the pinch bolts on mine, sprayed a little WD40 in the gap, then proceeded to rotate back and forth a little at a time, while spraying in that gap. Eventually I could move the hub all the way from one extreme to other with no problem at all. I just made sure I let it penetrate each time I moved it a bit.
I removed mine from my DVT in January, the bike having covered the best part of 30k miles, the hub hadn't seized but water would constantly drip from the drain hole in the bottom of the swingarm. It's pretty much self explanatory how to remove it and you'd be amazed at the amount of road crap that accumulates in the swingarm, the drain hole becomes almost blocked by it. The difficult part is removing the huge circlip that sits behind the brake disc and keeps the hub in place, you'll need some big strong circlip pliers for this, replacing it is even more difficult as there is an "o" ring and large washer that keep dropping into the circlip groove while you struggle to align them and press them against the hub while trying replace said circlip .
