So.. bravely faced what is generally considered the worst job on these bikes - removing cush drive rubbers. General advice is to drill "around the clock" the rubber part, removing the inner metal sleeve, then cut the outer sleeve, then cave the outer in with a cold chisel. Definitely NOT the way to go...you will get there eventually, but a full day of swearing and frustration is included. This is what you end up with if you drill, it also buggers up the casting, although that is invisible when reassembled. This hub is a Sport Classic hub which is slightly harder with the method below as the holes are blind, you can't access the back of the cush rubber.. I believe you can through the wheel on the SS range. A puller is the way to go, with a decent amount of heat, in this case I ground down a flanged nut so it was exactly the inner diameter of the cush rubber, drop it down to the blind side and then "hook" it on to the edge of the inner sleeve. It will slip off if massively overtightened, but the trick is to load up the rubber to the limit (so it looks like a volcano), let it stand and then apply a good amount of heat to the outside. If it doesn't pop..add more heat. For sure this is easier if you have access to the back as the flange nut can be larger than the inner sleeve diameter...as it then won't slip off. Also if the wheel is intact it will be easier, as stable packing is an issue on the hubs alone... Hope this is clearish, I managed to rattle through the 5 remaining rubbers in an hour or two.. and the job is clean. Drilling was a right faff, makes a mess and butchers everything up. Cheers Grant
Try using an expanding anchor bolt into the middle of the bush. Then use a slide hammer. Have not tried it myself - but that's how I would try. The rubber may limit the shock. If that does not work - then using the same method with an expanding anchor - this time do similar to what you do to pull the bush out - but using the thread of the expanding anchor against the bridge of the puller to tighten and pull out.
