Evening Think the sprag (starter) clutch on my ST4S is on the way out. It's always been a bit noisy on initial engagement and also occasionaly make a loud clank when I switch the engine off. Then it's now twice failed to engage when I push the start button, both times at the petrol pumps. I can just hear the starter motor whizzing round, which it carries on doing 'till I switch off the main ignition switch. First time it engaged OK once I'd turned off the headlight but yesterday the light was already off. I engaged a gear and rocked the bike back and forth which (coincidentally I think) ended up with the starter engaging and off we went. Not done it again since. Has anyone replaced one? I assume it's a bit of a faff. I changed the starter motor on my SS a few years ago and was able to undoe the retaining bolts through a handy hole in (I think) one of the timing gears but I assume the sprag clutch just stayed in place when I withdrew the motor. So, any hints and tips very gratefully recieved. Cheers Grunt
Top man .... thanks. Looks relatively straightforward .... ....... but pricey. Oh well, I reckon it'll last until the winter ..... just stop at the top of the hill until then just in case, eh?
KTM sprag is same but half price I believe. I did one years ago by laying bike on side without draining oil and coolant.
You will need a flywheel holding tool, some threebond and some tecseal green thread lock fluid. Other than a case puller its a doddle. You will also likely need to change starter gear and flange too. Parts for 1198 cost me £346 inc vat. Plus a torque wrench suitable to tighten flywheel bolt. I forget the torque but its 350ish.
Works a treat but you need either a workbench or be able to lift the back of the bike quite high... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-FL...996-998-1098-3-PHASE-STATOR-TYPE/263002210516
Hopefully won't need this as I've got one of those electric rattle spanners ...... work so well that I've never needed to hold the item against the torque. Fingers crossed!
Yep, I thought so too - but the nut needs to tighten up to 300Nm! Much more than my impact ratchet goes to.
As Duke says, you need the tool to hold it. You wanna make sure that ones up tight. I have electricyrattlergun too. But I still needed it. Plus I checked with my torque wrench and bought too much locseal green because i didn't read the ad. That fucker isn't coming off in a hurry.
Put the bike in first gear with the front wheel against a wall and get someone to sit on the bike with both brakes hard on - I did that to check the torque after I had used a Clarke 1000w rattle gun on the nut. I was actually slightly over the required torque.
hi if you need that lock tool on ebay pm me here as i make them and offer 10% off to any one on this web p/p at cost ,also r92 r93 type as well dry clutch tool inc fcc type tool mike
I used the old soft penny in the mechanism trick when I did mine. Rattle gun for off, fuck off big extension on toque wrench to tighten it up with the penny in the starter gears. Good
Yes, you MUST change these too - otherwise you will be pulling it all apart again to do it properly before you know it! 330Nm is the torque. You are also supposed to use the correct RED thread lock, as this has the required strength for the torque, this type of lock usually requires heating to over 200 degrees to dismantle. I wouldn't recommend the 'use a penny' trick, at all.
I can personally vouch for this guy having bought tools and stands from him, excellent tools, excellent service, and very reasonable prices!
I’d have put a disclaimer under that if I was you. It’s an easy way to snap a single tooth off a gear, especially a narrow one like in this case. It’s an old trick, I’ve used it myself on bigger gear sets, but a rough one, and works best on bigger gears with lots of area. You are effectively putting all the torque through one tooth of the gear by taking up any slack, rather than sharing the force through the gears that are coming out of mesh and those going into mesh. Nasher
+1 for Michael Shannon, I bought his one and it works a treat. Its the GREEN thread lock. The RED one is the normal one. You need the one that holds it tight and strong. The colours are based upon the recommended manufacturer which I forget but it isnt loctite. I used the recommended (see manual). Liberally too. That flywheel isnt shifting anytime soon at 350Nm with Green on it. EDIT: Recommended manuf is Techsil High Strength High Heat. I'll post the actual class later but i think it may be Techsil TB1375B.
It must depend on the manufacturer, the last high strength 'needs to be heated for release' lock is red with the medium being green. I only use it on the flywheel nut and clutch nut.
I only know this as i did mine on 1198 earlier this year. i ordered what was specified which was techsil but any high strength high heat will do i guess. I kept to spec as i didnt want that flywheel shifting.
