Regarding the characteristic metallic noise from the front cylinder, said to be 'normal' piston slap, and a sound to tolerate, I still wonder about mine. It seems to be coming from the front cylinder, but I notice it is distinctly more obvious when the bike is leant on its side stand. Could this symptom point to another cause?
Its a metallic knocking noise, with a sort of looseness which recalls worn gudgeon pin, and definitely not screeching. To me its not light, but strong, especially on side stand. I'm running her on fresh 10w 40 semi-synthetic engine oil. Valve gear shims were checked for tolerances; all OK, but horizontal exhaust closer close to zero (< 0.05mm). Compression is high at 145 psi
What the OP says about the noise seems to suggest it is piston slap (Front cylinder etc) - why it should be louder when on sidestand is odd, unless the ground is 'magnifying' the sound somehow, unless very low on oil which doesn't appear to be the case. I have in the past added a dose of Wynns or STP to the oil in various engines to see if it quietens noisy running (not my SS, I hasten to add - that was never a particularly noisy engine) - it only lasts for a few miles as it gets hot and mixes in with the main oil but I wouldn't use the stuff if it can't be mixed with synthetic or semi-synthetic. Maybe try a heavier oil, though - say a 20-50; and see if it changes anything. Trouble is, some sounds are difficult to pinpoint as they can travel within the engine to an area which is not the source.
The knock I had with my SS was from a loose alternator nut but it wasn't particularly metallic iirc. If it's a loose flywheel, maybe it could sound worse with the bike leaning left... Clutch in or out make any difference??
I have a video , as suggested. It'll be up in a few minutes, on youtube. The noise I described as louder on side stand: having replaced the oil with 10w 40, and up to the top (it was between the marks before), I can't reproduce that symptom of it becoming louder on the stand, but the bike wasn't thoroughly warmed up this time. - In any case, the stand was on a tile on an earth track with a thick tile for support, unlikely to be reverberation. The noise is louder on idle, i should state, and more or less dies away at 2000 revs and above. I don't like the noise. Seems excessive. Noise doesn't go away when pulling in the clutch. With ear close to the clutch cover, the noise seems to emanate from the cylinder - it isn't as direct at the clutch cover.
That sounds like a valve train noise to me, sounded loudest around the Horiz. inlet valve area on the vid., of course it's hard to tell with a vid, but I would pull the H. inlet valve cover and have a look/listen.
Well, you know, thanks for that Dave and Old Rider , the observation of engine speed: from the start upon takeover (last year) I suspected valve noise due to... as I say, I've an horizontal cylinder's exhaust closer valve clearance of less than 0.05 (can't measure less) and I suspected too close possibly zero... I'm going to listen carefully with cover off, and perhaps re- shim it. Overjoyed at the chance of less work on this right now. (-:
I dont think the small gap on the valve would cause that noise, but I will wait to see what you find.
Thanks Desmoquattro, you're most perceptive: that's the exact sort of experienced suggestion I had wanted considering all that's been said so far. I suspect the closer shim is binding - no shim turn on pressing down closing rocker. The opener is at 0.2 mm, which in all suggests perhaps previous owner attempted to adjust shims and got it wrong. If bind isn't responsible for the noise, what else in the valve train should I also look for, apart from valve seating? I'll dismantle shims today, can't re-install immediately before measuring up and ordering new shims, unless I grind down closer shim - which I may attempt, just not sure of technique - for instance, should I use emery cloth or a decent flat norton stone?
1) Does the tacho work properly? Before the drive starts screeching, they can 'knock' a bit as the worm and pinion drive break up. 2) Camshaft bearings OK? When worn, the cam can slap from side to side a bit - Take the cam cover off and inspect the shim / thrust washer. 3) Belt pulley silly nut not come loose? That can make quite a noise if the pulley is loose against its woodruff key.
Tacho works properly. Drive checked. Will check cam bearings for sideways slap. Belt nuts Good. Removed shims on horizontal exhaust. Inspected - no debris. Will sand down to produce a gap. Found the rocker spring clip is noticeably deformed... about 2mm deflection to each side at the centre (total 4mm out of true) see pic - taken straight on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Camshaft side float and bearings seem good and tight. Valve seems to spin OK on seat, and 'feel' for wear in valve guide tolerable with valve at about half lift (i.e. at 11, 000 miles).
I removed 0.1mm off the horizontal exhaust closing shim, to give a gap of 0.04mm, and then checked no bind. Start up, and the offending sound still exists, though in its clearer, more distinct - (a kind of improvement!)... less ancilliary noise. So, I think its been running with a little bind on that exhaust closer. I dont suppose what is a kind of ringing-tapping sound could be an exhaust opener gap at outer limit of 0.2mm? Belt tensioner bearings seem OK. Cam turns smoothly, not obvious play. Finding it hard to accurately locate noise with ear.. but again, amplifies when on side stand, and seems to come from or travel to, front cylinder... I used to be confident and accurate at this, with British twins. I wish someone could give me that experience on Ducatis! (please, go ahead...); perhaps I ought to ride over to someone living near by in West London or Home Counties - if that might help? I suspect I may have to take the front pot off and look at valves. Yet compression is very good, exhaust opener gap found at 0.2mm, and ear on forward head doesn't confirm valve pinging. I'll do some re-checks first: - the inlet valve gaps again (since last year), which were OK 200 miles ago. - the (crank?) pulley nut by checking torque (waiting for new wrench by post, norbar bust on me) - the condition of the cam thrust washer (missed that bit Arquebus!)
the sound and that it's a 600/front cylinder point very strongly to piston slap. If this is the case then when you examine the bore of the front barrel you will probably find the nikasil surface worn away in 1 or 2 minute areas.
Chris, do you mean to say the uneven bore wear causes that nasty (embarrassing!) ringing sound at tickover/when cold? ps. Is this piston slap supposed to be common on horizontal cylinder due to gravity and/or the high compression of 600cc motors?
