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St3s Low-speed Handling

Discussion in 'Sport Touring' started by wotbus@, Jan 31, 2017.

  1. Posted here but may apply elsewhere.
    My recently acquired ST3s is a bit of a handful in town or at slow speeds. I realise the jump from 40mm Del-Orto's to Fuel Injection after a long bike-free layoff will require a new technique but rolling off the throttle in 1st or 2nd is like stepping on the back brake and easing it open is like getting the green light on a drag strip :fearscream:
    I have surfed and read this can be a problem with any bike which is FI, even found a site in USA which manufactures a throttle grip specially designed to reduce this problem, but before I go down that road or back the dealer under guarantee I was wondering if this is simply an adjustment or something you have to get used to or has anyone else had this situation and what was done to clear it. Ummmm, absolutely no problem on the open road :relaxed:
     
  2. do a Throttle Position Sensor reset and balance the throttle bodies...i also went down to 14 tooth sprocket on the front..it picks the revs up slightly making it less jerky
     
  3. Ah, I have a lot to learn. I did all my own maintenance including valve shimming before but your reply is the start of my learning curve as none of this is in the little owners manual. Do I need a Haynes or the like ?
     
  4. I don't know if it will work on your bike but on the 999, a Yamaha R1 throttle tube is a popular mod. It's actually intended to speed up the throttle action but eliminates play from zero, so makes the transition from zero much more predictable.
    Another thing I learned to do in order to cope with the sharpness of the throttle response is to keep two fingers on the brake lever. Doing that gives you much more precision with your throttle input.
     
  5. Thanks old rider, I took to using the fingers on the front brake lever and slipping the clutch almost instantly (despite the arthritis and long time layoff...) but thought there must be better way than working all the controls just to progress smoothly.
    I'm not at home at the moment but as soon as I can I will take it back to the Ducati dealers and ask for the set-ups to be checked as marklwhittaker suggested.

    Edits typo
     
    #5 wotbus@, Jan 31, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2017
  6. If you can eliminate play on the throttle somehow, that will be a big help.
    I wasn't suggesting actually operating the brake, just using the lever to steady your hand
     
  7. theres free software out there on the forums that lets you reset your TPS with your laptop and an USB OBD connector....and if you can do your own spannering, which sounds like you can, then you can balance the throttles yourself...i use morgan throttle balancers
     
  8. Is that the same as the Morgantune carb balancers??
     
  9. The setup obviously needs some TLC but it will have to wait until next week.
    Thanks for all the feed-back and I'l post if and how it gets sorted. I have only ridden 20k from the showroom to home plus a few k's for the test ride, then polar temperatures set in for a week so no play-time :(
    I have removed the R-Lower fairing to access the battery with a view to rigging a connection for a battery-charger/tender under the seat somewhere assuming it is not necessary to disconnect the battery to charge it as I don't envisage too much winter riding at the moment. OK like this ?
     
  10. +1 on changing the gearing, TPS , Balance and CO settings. A upgraded Clutch Slave helps too. Lead for charger and Jump lead are good mods too.

    If you wish to go mad I have moved my hand controls down by taking out the small nipple (HE HE!) that locates them
     
  11. Thanks johnny, all noted. I did try to "lower" the levers as they are a bit "flat" for my height and liking but when I encountered the nipples :blush: I left alone for the moment. Are they just a push fit in the bars ?
     
  12. Something I forgot to mention.
    There was only a bit of fuel in the tank when I picked up the bike, normal.
    On the way home I filled it to just below the tube inside the filler, as per the owners manual.
    In my garage I have a very strong smell of petrol, so strong it had me searching for a leak, several times, but no leak found.
    Normal ?
     
  13. Was it on the side stand, she will pi%% out from the overflow if you fill her up and put her on the side
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Ahh, she was for a while before I put her in the garage on the centre stand. Thanks.
     
  15. The tank support bracket can be a stress area and fracture.....happened to me on my st4. I was ready for it with st3 and had it replaced under warranty.
     
  16. Yep, tank support bracket is held on with four spot welds that pull out of the back of the tank and then cause a leak, the tell-tales of that are yellow-ish staining in the back corners of the tank. I ended up seam welding the plate back onto the tank to fix it.
     
  17. :fearscream: OMG. Try to be a bit more gentle...but thanks for the heads up :disrelieved:. 'kin 'ell, first chance to look will be next Sunday, I'll never sleep now.
     
  18. If you do decide to change the gearing it is smoother and better for the drive train to chang e the rear sprocket, front sprocket change is very harsh on the internals.
     
  19. Its seems as if its only an issue if the tank's been lifted and supported on it's prop when it's been half full or more. As Johnny mentioned, it is probably just be venting through the overflow.

    These bikes seem to be over-geared from the factory, possibly to do with ride-by noise regulations. For example I have an ST4s running on ST4 gearing (or +4 on rear sprocket) and its made a huge difference to pulling away and low-speed control, whilst not changing the fuel economy particularly, or making the engine rev too high at motorway speeds.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  20. Ahhhhh, I had forgotten what it was like to own a Duke.
    I get home the weekend, check the tank for holes and start counting teeth on the rear sprocket...:smirk:
    I don't know what is standard for the 3ts, yet, but you suggest +4 from standard which makes it a (?). I intend some two-up short trips so see no disadvantage with lowering the gearing.
    If I change this plus a different throttle grip of couse I don't expect this to be covered by the guarantee. I was told the motor had had a complete revision before sale, inc belts etc but I will ask about the TPS and carb balance.
    I am grateful for all the feedback :grinning:, thanks.
     
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