This is probably one of those 'old chestnut' questions which has been asked for years. I've had a search around and found various discussions on the subject. I haven't managed to find a definitive answer yet. I have a high compression 955SP conversion of a 916SP, and over the years have tolerated poor starting performance...but no more! It's driving me nuts! :weary: Does anyone know if there is a straight forward way, without engine mods, to increase starter turning power using different gear ratios? I currently have 13T on the pinion, and 13T/56T on the idler gear, which I believe is the 'standard' for a 916. Is there any other recognized ways to improve starter performance? better leads? higher output battery? Thanks for any advice you have.
The 1198 and 1200 engines from the Multi and Diavel have a lower gearing for the starter drive. But the starter pinion appears to be integral with the starter, or at least it's not available separately. The idler gear is different to match, and so is the driven gear behind the flywheel. The bearing inner sleeve and the flywheel flange are all different too, so it looks like you would need to replace the lot if they can be fitted.
The 916 starter pinion can be removed, its just held on with a circlip. You see different idler/pinion gear sets on Fleabay with tantalizing # numbers (#1, #2, etc), but there isn't much info on what can be done and what goes with what.
Yes the 916 pinion can be removed but the one from the 1198 appears not to be, at at least not obtainable separately. The same part number for the starter pinion is listed for every engine from the Paso 906 through to the 1098. I don't see how you can change any one pinion in the set without also changing the other 2.
Yes, it sure looks that way, but I can't find anyone actually saying it for definite. If I can get away with leads and maybe a battery I'll be very happy.
I've looked into this a bit further. Apparently when Ducati changed to the smaller batteries in 2001 they also reduced the starter drive ratio by changing the intermediate and driven gear sizes. The starter pinion remained the same. The new part No.s are: Intermediate gear : 176.1.009.1A Driven gear : 173.1.012.3A
The parts I heard would work are both from 2000+ ; Intermediate gear: 176.1.002.1A (11T/57T instead of 13T/56T) Driven gear: 173.1.004.1A (71T instead of 70T) but it doesn't seem that this is a widely used 'solution'. If leads/battery don't work then this is my next try, I'd prefer to hear some solid experience before trying it though.
The change of ratios does help , I had it done on my 996. That's the good news. Bad news is I can't remember the correct gears but I'm pretty sure they came off a 998. Lougi Moto helped me so give them a call. And the better cables will also make a big difference..
The YB16 is a good battery, albeit old tech, for CCA. The lead upgrade is a must have imo. I'd try that set up first before looking at gearing changes. The last of the 996/998's ran a 71T driven gear. On the gearing front, you have to watch how big you go on the driven gear. The later bikes, 1098 for sure, had the cases machined out to clear the gear.
U could possibly look to a lithium ion? My understanding is that u get a lot more CCA with them albeit struggle when they are cold, and the starter cable set is definitely a good shout as many have commented on good improvements from the solution Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Had similar probs with my 900ie Monster some years ago. Bought a new Motobatt (£62) new Solenoid and replaced the two cables supplying the starter with 100 amp (10mm outer and 7mm stranded copper core) cable. Bit of a pig to physically install the cables but with the right shaped terminals transformed the starting process. All bought on line for about £6.00. Don't forget to 'crimp' and 'solder' the terminals.
Plus one on the cable kit solution from @Exige. Yuasas make great batteries but their AGM range give usefully higher cranking oomph than conventional lead/acid, so check to see if they make an AGM for your bike. Lithium batteries are also good for oomph and they are also seriously light but there are still question marks about their safety when used with charging systems designed for lead/acid.
Hi Steve, yep mines at around 12.8:1. I'd guess the rear wheel is what you are hoping for. I haven't had it tested but it's more than enough power for me!
Hi guys, I'm back. Thanks for all the advice and input. The latest is that I purchased the lead kit from Exige (thanks v. much) and just spent an hour or so to fit it. The difference is noticeable, the engine cranks over much better and the battery doesn't drop as much so overall it is a big success. Now it will give me the confidence to go somewhere and actually switch the engine off! :smiley: The battery seems to still be good after a number of years of infrequent charging and use. If I detect that it needs replacing I'll look into higher output units so see what can be done. I'm not too keen on the idea of Lithium though, I've been around when issues have happened with them and I'd like to see how they develop over the next few years. While we are on the subject of fires and explosions what is the skinny on voltage regulators nowadays? Are there any greatly improved replacements available?
