Been having trouble with starting for sometime now and it seemed to start after having some work done. Once started it runs fine and doesn't miss a beat, its just the initial starting when its been left. It even starts ok but not great when left for a couple of hours when I've been out. I've currently changed the spark plugs, one coil and the ignition leads. Each time something is changed seems to solve the problem for perhaps one trip then returns to normal. Been to Ducati Leeds and as far as the diagnostics there isn't any faults. Not sure where to go with it from here. When battery is plugged in to the trickle charger seems to have the correct numbers. I don't want to just keep changing things until it works as a new starter motor is over £300 and thats without fitting and the engine needs to be dropped to do it so thats going to be big bucks. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
Have you tried a new battery? Mine would show up fine on the Optimate but was goosed. Could also be the charging system not charging your battery whilst riding.
Have a read here... https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/exact-start-hi-cap-cables-range-and-forum-discounts.36761/ Read post No 126 for the first feedback from a MTS1200 owner - link to the video's no longer work but I have them if you want them e mailing
The engine doesn't need to be dropped to access the starting motor, you just need to remove the alternator cover to access it, I think there are 3 bolts inside and a couple outside but it is really simple. Anyway, I have a LiFePo battery and the starting cables have been upgraded, and the bike still struggles to start sometimes, but always does . I think it is a minor ignition time problem.
I have fitted these leads that was the last thing I did. As I said initially solved the issue for one trip and then back to normal. Thanks though.
Ah, you mentioned ignition leads? V Strange, is it spinning up slow - I can email the 2 video's so you can compare. If it's spinning good it could be fuelling?
To be honest I have a copy of the service manual so I was going by that. I'll have to have a look. The issue I have is it wasn't starting at all and now it takes a hell of a lot to start it now if it actually does. Thanks for the reply.
Anything would be useful would appreciate it. When I've had the plugs out they are covered in fuel and there is a strong smell of fuel so it seems there is delivery of fuel.
I'm with JH here. These big twins, whether water or air cooled, always turn over slowly and need a healthy battery to cope. Many posters with starting woes on Multistrada.net have had their problems solved by a new battery even when they thought their current one was up to scratch. Have you tried jump leads from a another good battery? If it starts better with that, then you know what to do.
I'm going to do a check with a multimeter as I can pick one of them up quite cheaply. At least I'll know which way or the other then and they are always handy to have.
I had a car battery that died. Multimeter showed it absolutely spot on until I switched on the ignition (just dash), and the voltage would plummet. Test both states. Sounds like your battery just can't hold its charge, which is why it works after each trip (I'm guessing you plug it in after every trip).
A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Replacement starter cables can't make up for a shagged battery. If you replace the battery and it sounds like you should, don't buy an ordinary lead acid battery as they don't have sufficient oomph, expressed as CCA - cold cranking amps - to spin your motor. Buy a Lithium battery if you're brave or an AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery if you're more conservative. I went for a Yuasa AGM as they have a really solid reputation. With that and a cable kit, I have no starting issues at all these days
From what I've read, a fully charged battery should read above 13v. If it drops below 11.7v (could be 10.7v on some batteries but I don't know which ones) when cranking then the battery is no good for starting your bike. So 9v is not good enough.
Further to the battery test. I was referring to when I was attempting to start the bike it shouldn't drop below 9v but obviously above 13v before, at least that was the information that I read. I've just checked and it looks like that isn't the issue anyway. I actually got it to start which was a bonus but it never dropped below 10v as it was turning over. Once it started no issues it would start again without too much of an issue when it had been run for a minute or two. This is what's baffling me, as there is no issues once started from cold and it runs absolutely normally from there. I'm obviously not 100% sure but I suspect if there was a fuelling issue this would continue once it was running.
Sorry I've now read your post in full missed the numbers first time round. With those numbers there may still be issue then. I'm considering the AGM battery which can't hurt. I'm not sure exactly sure what it dropped to as I was looking for 9v so will leave it and see what it goes down to when its cold again. Thanks for the info.
Well new battery fitted without significant improvement so looks like new starter motor unless anyone has any further ideas.
If you have a cable kit and an AGM battery, I'm amazed you don't have a significant improvement. Next thing to try is to clean up the commutator on your starter motor, rather than just buy a new one
Well even if I have to replace it I'll I'll have a go at that then looks like the spanners are out again. Cheers
