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1098 Stm 48 Tooth Basket With A Standard Clutch - Possible?

Discussion in '848 / 1098 / 1198' started by Old Jock, Jun 25, 2014.

  1. I'm not ready to change the clutch yet, it's still Ok, but looking at possibilities.

    I do only road miles and don't feel the need to go to a slipper clutch, I know even on the road they can have benefits but they also seem to come with some problems too and I'd just rather have a standard clutch.

    So in order to lessen the hammering the clutch basket and plates take I was thinking about going to the STM 48 tooth setup when the time comes. However I'm a bit confused and don't know if I can get the STM basket and plates to just have a conventional clutch or of they are only applicable to slipper types.

    Anybody and ideas?

    John
     
  2. am the same mate but i wouldn't know where to start, been looking at Ducabike stuff, seem good value but am unable to offer advice. I need the same answers, although I am more inclined to go the slipper clutch route
     
  3. I can't think of any reason why not. Not tried but should be okay.
     
  4. Yes you can! Just need the 48t basket and 48t plates.
     
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  5. Yep. Works very well and longevity is much improved :)
     
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  6. Rattles will lessen on a 48t too.
     
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  7. Cool that's terrific another problem solved and a defo for the future then.

    I quite like the bag of spanners, not for the noise but the looks on the Japanese IL 4s owners faces when you pull in the clutch and the bike sounds like its about to come apart (knowing Ducati it probably will one day).

    John
     
  8. Its a nicer rattle on a 48t. :upyeah:
     
  9. OMG! Your sooo 1982. Move with times daddio. 48t where'it at man. Jive assed dude don't know no shit anyhow foo...
     
  10. 48t has a nice jazz rattle. 12t is more country and western.
     
  11. Id had a STM 48T basket and plate set up but couldn't get shot of it fast enough.Sounds ok for 500 miles then made a horrible higher pitched rattle that was a right racket and drowned out the noise from pipes.

    Opted for the 12T kit again and much prefer this.Not sure what extra life is like with STM 48T kit as I did so few miles before flogging it on fleabay.

    I use STM 12 basket and ducati bronze sintered racing plates which hammer the basket more but the feel from clutch and power delivery are worth it.
     
  12. So I thought I'd resurrect this to ask yet another stupid question.

    If I go to 48 tooth basket and plates I'm just thinking - will I need a new blingy pressure plate?

    I'm guessing the old one will only be good for the standard 12

    Bootsam pictures of your clutch required pleeeez

    John
     
  13. You will only need a tacky pressure plate if you have an open cover. I run mine generally with the OEM clutch cover. Unless its hot where I am going, in which case i use a grille thing instead. I prefer plain pressure plates. The plainer the better. Mine is a kind of dark grey. Rather typically ive just put the oem back on after my alpine trip. I will look for the pic that i posted for my 70mm as this showed my clutch. I will edit and post it back here or take the damn thing off again for you and take a photo tomorrow. Your OEM one will work fine.

    [​IMG]
     
    #13 bootsam, Jul 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 11, 2014
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  14. That looks good. As an aside your exhaust look nice and shiny too. No need to go to the bother of removing the cover Bootsam that photo is fine.

    I do have a tacky pressure plate and a chavy open cover coz I got no taste whatsoever. I tried really hard to get a Burberry check one but Burberry told me there isn't sufficient demand, Damm it all, what's wrong with you people!!

    If I have it right after looking at the parts diagram the teeth on the pressure plate engage with the drum not the basket, so any old plate will still work, if I have it right.

    Clutches to me are the devil's work
     
  15. Forgive my red spring caps. I had 2 of my spring pillars undo a bit and it wore the caps against the inside of my oem cover and filed down my black ones. I had some red ones spare. Honest.

    Exhaust will be black soon enough.

    Clutches are relatively simple to understand. I cant remember the way round off the top of my head, but I think the outer is connected to the crank and the inner hub to the gearbox. (might be other way round, someone will point out if im wrong). The plain plates engage with the outer and the friction with the inner. When you pull the lever in it releases the pressure on the plates so they can spin past each other freely. When you release the lever the pressure plate squeezes them all together again.
     
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  16. I have a spacers & stack height question in relation to this

    Im planning to use a OEM HUB and 48 Tooth basket and plates in my Monster s2r 1000
    If i use the 48 tooth plates and Basket, should i use the same system of plates in the clutch

    ie
    2 x 2mm steel driven plates
    1 x 3mm 48t frictions plate
    1 x 1.5mm convex driven plate
    then
    6 x alternate 3mm 48T friction plates and 1.5 or 2mm steel driven plates
    to obtain a total stack height of 38.5mm?

    Do i need to use the convex steel plate with the 48t plates?
     
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