Suspension Woes

A second to rebound sounds a long time. Imagine if you were on a road full of bumps, it would chunk down and run out of travel and be like riding with no suspension I'd imagine

Badk to basics, set sag, go mid point on settings and see how that feels, just make sure it compresses and returns at a very similar rate

 

All things being equal it shouldn't change in such a short time of no use. So what has changed? Are tyre pressures good? Or have you lost a seal?

 

Maybe an internal valve is blocked? Yea change out the oil

 

Wasnt there another thread reece tly with a strange-handling hyper or monster that ended up being something wrong inside? Fluid or valve or something. That was sorted really easily (build up of pressure was it? Remove cap, like a fizz, then fine?)

 

have you started with setting the front and rear sag?? always set sag first and do it with rebound and compression fully wound out, then start with front rebound, wind rebound up 2 notches at a time, hold front brake on push down on forks and release downward pressure without pulling bike up, what your looking for is the fork returning to fully extended without going past the settle point and back down, so simply put, the fastest return upto to settle point without rising above and dropping back down, now move to rear, do the same, rises up but do not rise so loosly it rises up then settle back down again,
now balance front to rear, left hand on petrol cap right hand on rider seat, push down with equal pressure and release but support the bike, you now need to balance the return rate between front and rear, speed up (wind out) and slow down (wind in) the front and rear to each other, one adjustment on the rear to bring rear to front reaction, then if another adjustment is needed do the front to match the rear, these adjustment will be 1 click as your fine tuning.
compression, set front to 6 click in from fully wound out, wrap a tie around fort stantion so you can see the furthest dive you take later when on your first test ride, now stand in middle of bike again, hand on tank and seat, push down.... wind in rear compreeion to ensure bike squats at same speed as front, what your looking for is a bike that squats then returns at the same speed at each end and doesnt come up past the static height to settle back down, however it needs to spring back as fast as possible whilst looking to acheive this,
now your first run, come back, how car did you tie get pushed to the botton of the stantion, you need to be about 15-20mm from bottom, if you are closer to bottom the wind in front compression then match the rear, is your more the wind out a click, match the rear to the front and retest, remember the 15-20mm is to allow for an unexpected pot hole
look up "2 click out on youtube, or Dave moss, absoloutly great at explaing and showing in lamens terms

 

+1 Dave Moss on youtube

 

45 front 30 rear at a guess. Rider sag. Maybe a bit more fromt on a hyper

 

the stantion you can see left untouched by the seal may not be the same distance inside the shim barrel??? be careful thinking you have more travel left,
im unsure of sag for hyper, rear is usually withing 5-10mm of front,
setting sag acurately means loosening off all comp/rbnd as you will have stichion (drag) on fork legs, a few mm incorrect here means you'll never get it the best it can be.
Ask the hyper section direct if they know the sag setting for your model, the principle of comp/rbnd is the same for all bikes

 

Be a good place to start, although I prefer mine a bit firmer so ten to run 40/25 on the road (not the multi)