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Featured The One With The Proper Swingarm..

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by Sev, Sep 4, 2021.

  1. First of all, we need to make something quite clear...
    for all you varese fairies I say this:


    now we've got that out of the way I'll begin.

    last year I was seduced into buying this wee project. The bike was bought as a basis for a trackday bike by the previous owner.

    Due to some changes in circumstances and direction he decided to sell it and for the price I tore his arm off for it.

    It's a 2006 Biposto. I've got enough old tat in the garage to give it the full blown S treatment.

    Anyway, lured by the promise of free tea and the eating of another mans hobbitsnobs this landed from the lands of not surrey.


    Strip down and clean was duly commenced and the stash of 999 parts box came out of the cupboard with many swears required to avoid loads of GSXR11 shit from falling on top of me.

    The seller has noted that the previous owner had tried to respray the tired rear shock in situ. Hereforth the owner who he bought it from will be referred to as the previous owner, since the seller hand't owned it long enough to qualify.

    The shock you say... the respraying the spring yellow you say.... The sticker says it all !


    The overspray went quite deep!


    The previous owner wanted to make sure the chain never dried out as there was enough chain gak to make your cloves look like you'd dipped them in treackle. I'd go as far as using the word... glistening.


    But not for long. The old sprocket and chain were also removed and a new one fitted when the degakking was complete.


    Swingarm was also given a birthday and the chain guide removed to allow for cleaning of all the plastic bits.


    But overall in reasonable nick.

    new M12x1.5 rose joints ordered from McGills Motorsport for the shock linkage rod as I wasn't giving Ducati £60 for a rose joint.

    Next step was to have a good clean up, wipe down the tools and just check everything over.
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  2. Stuff then began dropping through the door, and some very little stuff has been happening in the garage on account of the temperature and my nipples growing bigger than my nob when I go out there.

    The bike has got some gratuitous charcoal tat to get sprinkled upon it..


    The forks and yokes were taken off as I just happenned to have a nice complete front end from a 749r. The dedication plaque came off nice and easily too.

    Interestingly even in it's road setting, the 749R yokes have a different and unique to the 749R offset to the stock everything else yokes, I didn't know that. You lot probably did, but I didne.

    To be fair its just nice having a set of yokes with a hole in the bottom again for a front lifter stand. Mudguard was destined get replaced with some charcoal fibre snotter I had lying around in the garage.



    The back end has had some tarting as well..


    And a caliper was replaced for the same but in ponce tint


    because why? - well because it needed to match the calipers which needed a pretty good clean up to free up a couple of the pistons and bring them up to my standard. I've got a set of 1098 masters as well which were blessed with those horrible pissy shorty levers which took many hammer blows and heat to remove the pins from. Fucking things. Proper levers went in however their use was up in the air as I had a pair of RCS ones stashed away.


    and I know you bunch of deviants like a bit of pegging.


    On investigating one of the previous owners had done a conversion on the throttle.

    I thought it a 916 family throttle as it has a single not dual cable, but no fast idle nubbin, thus with some sage advice I was told it was 998. Either way, it had to go.


    I've got a 749R tank for it, which to be fair, looks a bit shit shape wise vs the RS or the regular tank, and an RS seat unit I'd like to fit.

    Its came with some BT021r rubber on there, which I'm going to see through the rest of the year and then change the rear for a 190/55 as it's a 190/50 currently - this will go on a 5.75 rear I have for the bike. if I was keeping the stock wheels on it I'd stick with a 180.

    So as always with these things, we wait.
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  3. Lots more cleaning, and lots more fidgeting..
    some of these..


    Now live behind these, as I schemed out the routing for the hydraulic lines..


    Rear brake master swapped out for a PS13


    And a direction is being formulated..


    In order to make the front play nice, some trimming of the charcoal mudguard was going to be necessary


    The design language must be respected as the roll necked felt tipped fairies would say...


    Better. Clearance achieved, and I trimmed a hole and track to mirror the right side brake line run cavity on the left hand side.


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  4. Fun Fact Time

    Speaking to Mode Performance it turns out the M4 calipers come in two flavours.

    The 100mm caliper is a different beast to the 108mm caliper.

    The 108mm caliper has the banjo bolt mounted outboard and down from the mounting bolt.



    The 100mm caliper is the one we have as standard equipment on the 1098 onwards. Due to the tightness of the package (and probably also Ducati insisting they wanted to use an over the mudguard brake line setup, the 100mm caliper has the banjo bolt and the bleed at the top of the caliper - which aren't interchangeable as the bleed is a ladies M8 thread.

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  5. I january a box landed from that abroad place. The sender kindly declared it as a gift, so no HMRC faff of which to speak of.

    I opened it and test fitted the contents,

    Which allowed me to slave up the seat unit.


    after such excitement i removed them and promptly put them back in the box.
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  6. I’m ashamed how dirty that exhaust is...

    But patience is a virtue and that's why this is going on there... at some point in the not so far future...ish


    Or more precicely this part of it...


    Which is having a new Y piece made for a silencer I bought off a man in Ballymoney. Which seems to have lots of people who enjoy riding bikes fast living there [​IMG] funny old world innit.
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  7. Then we had to do some of that waiting business.

    The 749r rear shock saga drew to a close (don't ask), and that was finally delivered and went away for a birthday.

    As it turns out, the rod was pitted and they are no longer available from ohlins, but it was saved to a good state.

    I'd got me a NoS lockset, so I got the clocks virginised and the ECU flashed.

    Clocks came back from Viriginising, and have now been reprogrammed with the new lockset I had, and the 749R tank installed as a result.

    Hi cap start leads needed 1.5mm shaved off the ends as they didn't play nice with the battery terminals on the small planetary mass Yuasa battery - no big deal, and now they don't peek out past the oem bits of crappy bent plate. Whoever was the design engineer on that battery box was a complete nob.

    What else ?...

    I dry fitted the inconel system and it's big. I can see why Termignoni done the banana pipe in respect to the package envelope. it totally deletes out the rear fairing mount and pretty much touches the whole rear brake master assembly which will need spacing outboard, as will the rearset on that side unless I want to have a set of asbestos boots made.

    as always, one step, forward one step back, but if it was easy every one would be doing it wouldn't they.
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  8. So I made aquaintance with that lovely @Lorne250 fella, and he gave me the opportunity of a lifetime - yes, I'm easily pleased.

    Lorne had an RS tank, which he kindly let me hold in my grubby little paws.

    The mission was to take a mould of the seat pan area of the RS tank.

    My self imposed condition imposed was "if you fuckkr it you buy it" I wasn't about to risk loads of splodge on the Tank and so went into full paranoid mode.


    The whole area got smothered in flash tape. Not pretty but very functional.

    Next step was to start planning the wier boards for the return faces where the mould has to separate and break apart, and also the run off.

    Foamex board was shaped to give templates and slowly the thing was coming together.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    With all the boards in place, it was time to start. Final step was to embed drill bushes into the part on all holes and also to act as locators so that the thing can get bolted together and aligned. Fillet wax was used to plug any gaps and make the geometry watertight. Epoxy gel was applied and allowed to go tacky.


    You continue doing this for each segment. After it's cured you take away the dams for the next part, re-prep everything, rinse and repeat.

    The top side shows this pretty well. The green faces are the already moulded faces.

    I used an epoxy moulding putty kit not cheap but it was clean and quick. Not the cheapest way of doing it, but the cleanest and safest vs the risk of resin running everywhere.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

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  9. So we continue like this, until the part is done. Then the mould is taken off the pattern trimmed up and cleaned up - well like I said, this mould is no beauty queen, but it's a starting point.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Templates were taken from the mould segments and material pre-kitted to keep mess down. This first off was going to be pretty thick.

    The first off part is going to be sacrificial, you learn what laminating challenges there are and would prove the mould integrity. The intent is that it be chopped and diced to understand what needed to be done to get it all to fit.


    One bin liner and a vacuum cleaner later and it's all sucking down nicely, Since I did this I have my vacuum pump back working so the next one will be much nicer.

    I knew this one was going to be messy, and very rough but as said, this is the one which I was going to butcher to see how it fitted, so was never going to be a final piece.

    You'll note in the images above the tan patch. That's a piece of sheet wax that in the part will create a depression.

    The intent on the final part will be a recessed window that when trimmed will give me something to bolt an access panel to and still remain flush with the surface.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I also meshified the V-piece - I had some stainless mesh and some JB weld going stale so I thought.. what the hell.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
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  10. Next up was the fronty bits.

    Because I'd replaced the air tubes with carbon ones, there was a wee problem, first world, but a problem none the less.

    On the 999, the air tubes also have the rad shrouds and coolant catch tank incorporated as some of you may be aware. They actually do a lot of work and pretty good bit of design. The carbon air tubes don't have that functionality. The accepted norm is a motion pro overflow bottle and nothing shrouding the rad - I didn't want that.

    So some simple templates were made from foamex board. - We like foamex board.

    The template sides were flash taped together, and then fillet wax was used to create radius edges which make laminating nicer using a fillet ball, or a dumbell for a hamster.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]


    Once again, pre-kit the material makes life much tidier and keeps everything clean.

    The white stuff with the red stripe is peel ply, sometimes called parachute silk. It gives an even rough finish on the back of the part and comes off without sticking to the resin.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
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  11. When the part is extracted, as the walls of the mould are all removable, we can create a part to have 90 degree walls rather than drafted faces. The best bit - to make the other side just reassemble with the walls facing the other way

    To mount they have a tab underneath, so this was bonded on and then it was time for the final bodyfit and trimming. It's a bit trial and error with the first offs, but once you're done you can create a template of the trimline and use it for future ones. Again, the surface finish wasn't important as it's not going to be seen and suffer all sorts of shit thrown at it. There are some tooling marks on the surface, but short of getting run over by me, you're never going to see them once fitted.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Next the process of fit - trim - fit - trim till you have a nice fit that doesn't need tugging or stressing.



    What of the expasion tank?

    Well... what fine ladle or jellyspoon would be without their hip flask?

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  12. Curtesy of a man breaking an old shitpile peasant 1098, I found myself in the possession of some rather nice forks.

    After having them serviced by BG motorsport as Silverstone the were fitted and look suitably brutal.

    They are essentially a set of R&T forks but with a custom bottom commissioned by JHP to take the 108mm caliper.

    On the first fit it dawned on me that the stock 12.5mm offset discs were too wide on the track for the calipers.

    Oh fuck...

    Oh fuck, fuckity fuck

    The forks were done for the 916 family and so I needed 7.5mm offset discs but 5 hole - Oh fuck fuckity fuck fuck. Naturally I sharted messen at the thought of how much impact this was going to have. Hot beverage was brewed, and bisk-wits were dunked and eaten in order to think my way out of my conundrum.

    As it happens a desparate phone call to some truly fashionable brembo people yielded a happy result. The correct centres.

    However the cosmic manitee decrees that even Kylie's arse must stil fart, and thus they were ex sbk. biscuits of arse.

    But... if I was happy for a set of used 12 bobbin sbk rotors then they'd make them up for me. I was happy.

    To put them in persepective, the road bikes have 10 bobbins and 5mm of meat on the OEM disc. Brembo hpk/Supersport have 5.5mm and the SBK rotors which are only 12 bobbin fitment have 6, 6.5 and 6.75mm on them.

    the 6mm discs were worn by .2mm so have plenty of life for road use and will outlive me unless I suddenly Joe 90 all of Rossi's talent.

    Happily a nice cheap price was reached and the front end was thrown together. The 1098 mudguard that I bought to go on the forks needed to be trimmed to suit, and now it just looked proper.

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  13. Summer came and I wheeled the old girl outside and ran her up, till both fans kicked in a couple or three times and just checked everything over.

    Rearsets and PS13 master cylinder fitted and dry breaks are all of the shiny.

    Hel made me a spacer so that I could lift the clutch slave dry break up. I've decided we like Hel Performance.

    Shock was swapped out for a proper one I had in the stash as opposed to that homebrew sprayed one that the previous owner inherited.

    The carbon clutch cover needs to be dug out, a bursi alloy one was fitted, but for now - it'll do pig.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]


    Master cylinders were fitted and bled up, and the brackets I made for the yoke mounted pots on a previous project now support some symmetrical big manly elephant balls reservoirs.


    And finally the OEM mono seat cowl went on.


    MOT was booked for early may, and that gave me time to polish it all up and set the suspenders up.

    I tell you what though... it sounded truly bizarre with a road legal can on it!
    #13 Sev, Sep 4, 2021
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2021
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  14. I also took the liberty of getting the RS tank and the roadbike tank scanned.

    The intention is to make a proper RS tank for the roadbike, as I really like the idea of the oil catchtank under the seat, cleaning up all the engine bay area.

    Having the scans is huge. I can do all the work digitally.

    If I were to do this project manually I would need to :

    Take moulds of the entire RS tank , and make a part

    Take mould of the bottom of the road bike tank. and make a part.

    Find common faces and surfaces and marry to two to make a new tank to use as a pattern.

    Ready the pattern for taking moulds off, and we're looking at possibly anything up to a dozen segments.

    We'd be up to over a grand if not two grand and that's not including labour and time.

    Do do all of the above digitally and then create the pattern so that it can all be proved out and thereby cutting out all the above steps is huge.

    Then the part can be made to accomodate a lovely fuel cell. - but that's a long way off... I've got some pixel butchery to do first, and life is getting in the way.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Doing some initial analysis of the scans a few things become apparent.

    The RS tank is made up of three separate components.

    The tank itself, the base and the oil catchtank / seat mounting area.

    they are all bonded together to give you the work of art that is the RS tank.

    On the above tank, the seat pan / catchtank isn't symmetrical about centreline. It deviates by around a couple of degrees.

    I'd like to make a kit that allows for that as RS seat doesn't play nice with the geometry.

    It'll always sit high, but the supersort kit isn't nice anyway with all the holes that you'd need to smash in the panel to make it fit.

    I did a study of the three subframes as well (biposto, monoposto and RS), and the result was quite interesting - i'll post them up when I do the road v race tank study.

    Suffice to say that essentially on all three subframes there is a common mounting point which is shared, which I was quite impressed with, as I thought that the RS would be nothing like the road bike geometries - but in fact they share many similarities.

    On the mono subframe there are three seat positions in a 30mm range fore and aft.

    The biposto subframe has only the one, and it corresponds to the forward hole on the mono subframe.

    the RS subframe shares that same forward hole position as the other two frames.

    Interestingly, using the sueprsort mounting kit as a datum, the alignment of the tanks tallied up with my butchered first off part, which is nice.

    I can now make another seat base, and the relevant mods to make it fit onto a roadbike tank with confidence.

    But Sevignon Blanc,.. why don't you just fit a supersport mounting kit like wot you have to the RS seat unit and save yourself all of this hassle?

    Well.. there's a simple answer to that... because I don't want to.

    I don't like the thought of having thrown around 500 bones at the seat and base only to find that I've got to smash two holes into the seat squab and a further two into the back of the cowl. Pharrk that. As a race team, who cares, it fits, does the job well, and is functional. But I'm not a team and I want this to look right.

    Also, the RS seat unit kisses the RS seat mounting so beautifully it makes you weep with happiness.

    The intention is to work on a wee kit that will have this RS style seat mounting and maybe a revised composite heatshield so that it can all mount as it should do.

    And it keeps me out of trouble.

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  15. Wow
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  16. Clever Sev. :upyeah:
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  17. I thought when i meet you the other day you're a cut above the rest.:upyeah:
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  18. Good meaty write-up.

    Enjoyed that.
  19. yeah yeah yeah........but where are all the 749RS parts?: unamused:

    I see all my training has not been wasted?:innocent::scream:
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  20. Superb Sev, really annoyed the Mrs reading through all this :D:upyeah:

    I’ll always have a soft spot for the 749/999 stuff :)
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