Throttle Body Part Breakdown

In the process of restoring my 2004 monster 1000 to her former glory. Thought some may find the breakdown of the complete throttle body useful. All parts have now been plated and bodies vapour blasted then ultrasonically cleaned. The shaft seals have been replaced with the improved viton seals. Screwed rod and nuts replaced with stainless and the plunger pin for syncing the bodies machined from stainless.

 

Totally agree - my father was great at taking things apart but always had spares on rebuild.
Rebuilding today and will post completed unit. Have some nice pics of heads, barrels etc all stripped and vapour blasted. In present form look great but will start priming and painting next week. Will post pics of all parts before and after painting along with a jig I made to aid painting. Rotates in two axis allowing ease of paint around fins and all over heads And barrels. Maybe of some interest to someone.

 

Together again

 

Here’s a pic of my jig to aid priming and painting of my barrels and head. It’s basically two rotating stages allowing me to spray in detail both barrel and head with ease. I’ve used two old bearings removed from my sprocket carrier pressed into two housing manufactured on my lathe. It’s made from bits of material I had lying around. Maybe a bit over the top but enjoyed making it and cost nothing.

 

Here’s pics of parts primed and ready for top coat today.
Whilst still waiting on my shims for 1098 I’ve had time to work on my monster rebuild. The white stuff on the ground is from my soda blaster used to clean up engine casings. Worked to a point on paint still remaining after chemical etching but still spent several days getting casings back to 100% bare metal i.e heavy black oxide impossible to shift without lots of elbow grease. All other parts I blasted with glass beads which leaves an excellent finish but with previous experience on my old bonneville engine don’t try on a partially built engine. No mattter what the beads get in requiring a complete crankcase split and rebuild. With this great weather I carried out all my work outside on the road which is great as didn’t need to use my extraction system.

 

Here are some more pics. Engine now painted and by coincedance been gifted a faulty environmental chamber from mate that knew I was working on my monster. Massive unit. Now fixed and thought I’d put into use curing my painted parts. Once fully cured can start building engine.

 

Thanks for that. If it doesn’t go back together will make a nice ornament! My bike has covered 150k so she’s due a makeover. Slightly pitted fork tubes so purchased a new set from eBay. My monster is the M1000 i.e but not the ‘s’ so came with the powder coated steel swing arm. Found an alloy one on eBay last year and after some glass bead blasting of the non anodised areas looks like new. Wheels away getting powder coated including the all important conductive primer layer which ducati seem to omit. Will then overcoat to get my preferred colour all finished off with a hard lacquer. Every metal part has been either zinc plated or yellow passivated - soon to be banned. Will post pics as the build develops.

 

Been a while with other projects getting in the way but back on monster. Frame, wheels, footrest hangers now painted and ready for completion. All parts now plated and ready for rebuild.

Heads and barrels now fitted along with my shiny rebuilt throttle body.

 

Will make a good ornament if all goes pear shape!
Just back from my unit after performing leak checks on each cylinder with 100psi applied. From previous tests on heads fitted to a base unit i measured 0% through the valves so anything measured now is purely down to piston rings. Although with high mileage I opted just to replace the rings as old ones all at 0.9mm so at wear limit. With new rings I measured 0.4mm and 0.5mm on second ‘ horizontal ‘. On the vertical 0.45mm and 0.55mm on second ‘vertical ‘. My leak checks on horizontal 2% and 8% on vertical which I’m putting down to slightly greater gap and a bigger ring to piston gap. Previously I was measuring around 50% on both cylinders. I’m reasonably happy though, however I’d prefer both at 2% but already went the replate route for 1098 and will wait to see how that does.
To leak check I’ve made two standoff’s “ one for vertical “63mm height” and one for horizontal “42mm height”. 8mm stud screws into belt tensioner screw with the other end tapped 10mm for fixing to pulley locking tool. Each one secures a cylinder at TDC to perform the leakdown. Seems to work well but had to increase the tensile strength of the pins in the ducati looking tool as initially sheared the pins at 80psi as just off TDC. Once belts, oil etc in engine I will perform compression tests by powering motor. Remember all performed when cold so should get better when fully running.
Will add a pick tomorrow.
Should start to take shape quickly now the engine is pretty much there and I’ve got all the rest of the parts.

 

Here’s my leak down setup. Find invaluable to test and pin point leaks before going any further.

Tend to also improve parts you don’t see. I get them plated with Ecotri which outlasts traditional plating in salt tests by miles. Does create a thicker coating though which needs to be considered. Although it’s not designed to come apart simply drilling out the rivet splits the seat catch unit. All plated and new rivet machined from stainless and now screwed together.

 

Nop - only 149,546 miles but who’s arguing ?
Been a great bike and very reliable.

 

Starting to take shape. Bought an alloy swing arm from eBay as mine is the 1000 with a tired steel version. Ordered Öhlins shock.

 

Can be a steep learning curve and many people on this forum much more knowledgeable on Ducati than me but you have to start somewhere. Put it this way when employed and had more money I put my Ducati’s in for servicing. Probably the only person that has a FDSH from a ducati service centre for 150kmiles. Fully stamped service book.
Now retired with an engineering background I’m enjoying working on all my bikes Ducati’s and other manufacturers where I have 40 years experience on the others.
Next time a dealer says you need to replace your switchgear as limited access to dismantle then see pics. Will repłate parts and hopefully rebuild.