Before I commit to getting oil pipes made up I need to make my mind up how best to route the lines. Got any pics of your setup? Anything you would do differently next time? Cheers
No problem! Made me think of something I read on one of the Yank Doocat forums? Somebody said - "Hey, I was thinking of stripping the bodywork off my SS & fitting some proper handlebars, it would make a much better town bike for my commute! What'dya guys think?" Somebody else amusingly quipped - "What? Like a Monster?" :biggrin::biggrin:
Found these from when I first got the bike, so a bit dirty......hope they are useful..... It's an easy swap for the cooler to go from low to high....just switch the rocker covers over....... ....but the pipes will be short..... and do you want carb heaters? AL
Cheers! Got that bit sorted... used an i.e. cover so as to not foul the tacho cable Valve Cover by Lindsay fae Angus, on Flickr Nah.... :smile:
A while back now but before I went the twin cooler route I did this mod on mine. Not sure if you're going to run full fairings or not, but I have the small Ducati Kaemna ones on mine so it was going to be visable. No real issues with routing the lines so it's more of a personal preference thing. Here's mine from before and now...
Will be running the same (well, the other German crowd) fairings. I remember your twin cooler setup from Ducatisti - is the bottom cooler from a 749 / 999? Cheers for the pics and apologies in advance for putting a downer on coloured couplings in the Monster section :frown: :biggrin:
No problem with me fella :wink: each to their own, I've just made up some new standard length lines for the SL and have used polished alloy ones (want it looking standardish) but I like the coloured ones on the old SS. Have to say it still works a treat at keeping the temp just right The bottom cooler is a 749/999 one, I was trying to get an 848 one at the time (slightly better shape) but as the bikes were new there weren't that many available second hand. Should be easier nowadays though.
The oil pipes I bought were from Earls already made up for a monster not much more than buying the parts and doing it yourself. I tried routing the far away line behind the starter but was worried about chafing so brouht it back up along side the other. I tidied it up a little by using the hose clamps they supply. It is a wee bit difficult getting the belt cover off but is managable.
Question - how much bigger capacity is the 999 oil cooler than the standard carby SS one? Im guessing counting the "rows" is not strictly accurate as the 999 one is a strange triangular shape? Perhaps measuring the total length of rows per cooler would give a better indication? Mine has a cover on it which will make things difficult... :frown:
Heres mine...made my own brackets.. because I am using carbon valve covers (and just found a NOS set of Marvic Magnesium valve covers yum yum ) I am not happy with the brackets as they look shoddy and are not perfectly flat so one of the valve covers leaks...getting some made up in Poland proper job with laser cutting, machine bending etc etc etc.
Nice George - but it's the pipe routing I'm after! LOL :biggrin: Decided I am going to go with the 'right to left in front of the starter then up the left side' approach per the post on the Monster thread - the right hand side is a bit busy with the belt cover. Toying with a wee stainless 'bulkhead' hanging off the threaded hole on the bottom left of the cylinder, run rigid pipe to that then flexi from there up to the cooler. We'll see...
Tell you what....have a good think about the pipe routes........there are two, maybe three things you need to consider.... 1) Getting the horizontal cylinder belt cover off without undoing one or both pipes from the engine end. 2) HowTF will you get at the idle, syncro and mixture screws with the oil cooler mounted on top?......Something I discovered today, because my cooler doesn't move far enough owing to carb heater hoses. 3) Watch out for the position of the cooler unions on top of the cooler......they are very close to the front airbox bolts, so when you hit a bump, the cooler unions can hit the bolts....I have been looking for that for ages, thinking it was the front mudguard whacking something. AL.
