As it says, I'm in the process of fitting a new off set triple clamp to my project bike and I've got to the point of assembling the stem to the lower clamp. Now I'm guessing it's a hand tight fit as there appears to be no tools in the manual so again I'm guessing some type of loctite is used on the thread. Can someone please confirm if this is the case and what grade of loctite is appropriate ? Many thanks, Andy
Depending on your set up it's usually the top yoke that keeps the bottom yoke\clamp adjusted correctly.
I don't know the setup, but the type I've come across before the stem is a press fit into the lower yoke. If it's threaded so as the stem screws into the bottom yoke, then I'd reckon Loctite would be a good idea, I'd be tempted to use high, but as I'm unfamiliar with the setup and you haven't posted any photographs I'm really not that sure John
On a 916, the bottom yoke is a screw fit to the stem. You can make a clamp out of a squarish rectangley bit of wood with a hole just a fraction less in diameter than the stem. Then cut them in half. Like 2 arched things. Clamp round stem, place them and stem in vice and tighten. Then twist bottom yoke off, a rubber mallet is handy to get it going. Fortunately Ohlins provided me with a set. However that bottom yoke was tighter than a highsiders chuff. Assembly is the reverse. I never used loctite though as I cannot see how it could possible come undone when assembled. Plus I did not wish to batter the new billet yoke to death to remove it. I just made sure it was good and tight normally. Anyone used those adjustable ones on an 1198? The robymoto things?
Photos posted in my album some time ago. DP Mag Alloy Factory Racing triple clamp. Reckon I'll use a strap wrench to get it tight. Thanks guys for the feedback. Andy
I fitted an Ohlins bottom yoke to my 916. The stem is screwed in to the yoke and I got some clamps from Ohlins with the new yoke to hold it in the vice as it was tight to remove, I'm certain it was loctited in so I used heat + mallet to free it and then loctited the new one in there. I used the strong stuff as I don't intend to remove it but I wouldn't think it's too critical and the semi-permanent stuff would probably be fine, no need to tighten it too much as once clamped to the forks it can't move anyway. Fairly straightforward, the only tricky bait is holding the stem in the vice firm enough to remove the old yoke without crushing/marking the stem, not sure if a wooden clamp would grip well enough to loosen the old yoke but should be fine for fitting the new one. Have you removed the old one yet?
Thanks for the info about your experience and it is about what I have ended up doing only I used a strap wrench to tighten the stem and I did use a couple of blobs of medium strength loctite. As this is a new install I have just boxed the botton yoke with stem and put it with the rest of the standard bits that have already been or am planning to take off. I have posted a couple of pictures in my 748 Racing album. Andy
Sounds good, you'd only need the clamp-blocks if removing the stem from the yoke. A strap wrench tightening will be plenty IMO, it's not going to be turning once it's fitted to the forks plus most yokes are only press-fit and I've never heard of one coming apart.
I'm running the 30 mm offset and a 24 degree insert…..half way house….but I'm also longer swing arm a la 1198RS length:wink:
Nice. The standard 748R bottom yoke doesn't have a hole in it so I had to use the latest attachment for the Abba stand to lift the front end enough to dismantle it and I have to say it works pretty well. The plan for tomorow is to refit the front wheel and build the front end back up so I can turn the bike round and start on the back end. And yes I will post some pictures in my album which is supposed to be a record of the transformation. Andy
Yes, I anticipate having to try 23.5 degree race position at some stage in the development as the intention is to fit a Factory supersport mag alloy swing arm which looks to be about 19mm longer than standard. Andy
