I've got the Rizoma rear sets on my SP2 and had it changed almost immediately to race shift. They did this without using the linkage that is supplied with the bike for this purpose. It seems that the linkage that comes with the bike is longer than the standard one. They also left the lower chain guard on and did not need to grind it out, presumably due to not having used the longer linkage. Oddly, when they fitted my low-exit Akrapovic it seems that they removed the lower chain guard completely as it's no longer on the bike and is instead in my box of parts. I want to adjust the lever higher as I find that it's a bit awkward to hook my foot under the lever than I would like. It looks like this involves adjusting the length of the linkage - a shorter linkage rod should lift the lever higher? There's also some adjustment available where the rose joint on the end of the linkage rod is attached to the lever. I'm guessing I could just loosen the rose joint where it attaches to the lever and move the lever that way? If that's insufficient adjustment then the linkage rod would need to be shortened? Looking at the length of the linkage rod that was supplied for race shift but not used, it looks like the lever would be even lower if that had been used and that it would probably not allow the lever to go up much. Could anyone comment on adjustment of the lever with the Rizoma rear sets and also perhaps advise why a linkage rod that's quite a bit longer than the original would be provided for race shift?
The longer rod supplied in the kit is needed for 3 or 4 of the footpeg positions. Road or race shift. The stock rod is used for OEM position and one other iirc. There's a table in the instructions that shows you which positions it is needed.
I don’t think that the length of the rod has anything to do with race shift compared to road shift. It is provided so that you have a suitable rod length whatever peg position (forward, back, up, down) you choose to use.
Thanks @razz and @nelly - that makes sense. Now I just need some guidance on adjusting the lever height... I'm still a bit confused about the chain guard being left in place before and then removed when they fitted the exhaust. There was enough clearance for the linkage rod.
Guard has a mounting on the back on the OEM silencer. If you fit Akras, the mounting point is no longer there so the chain guard has to go. Consequently you get lube all over the LH can. People make up replacement bracketry in order to refit the guard. To adjust the rod length, you have to do it all via the rose joint at the lever end of the rod. It is a pain, undo the bolt securing the rose to the lever, lengthen or shorten the rod via the rose joint thread, refit and see it it is what you want. Repeat as necessary. There is a small amount of up and down adjustment available at the lever pivot itself. Loosen the clamping bolt near the pivot and the lever will move. Be careful to do it up properly but not strip the thread. Its a pretty shit design in my opinion.
Thanks @razz So it looks like there is a small amount of adjustment available without having to change the rod length and then changing the rod length is required if more adjustment is required. There are certainly better rearset designs but at least it can be adjusted, although it looks like a faff. I might just get them to do it when the bike is in there shortly... If I decide to see how easily I can strip the thread or round off the nut, is there a torque spec for that bolt that attaches the rose joint to the lever? I excel at overtightening things that don't have a torque spec...
It’s really easy to do yourself and there’s more adjustment than you think, if you loosen locknuts either end of rose joints and roll the rod in each direction you’ll see lever go up and down! Just make sure you have enough threads in the rod itself
It doesn’t work like that on the V4 with the QS unit on the push rod. All of the threads are right handed. At least they were on my bike.
I think to make the lever go higher I'd need to shorten the rod length (reverse shift), which would screw the rose joint further into the linkage rod than it already is, so no issue there. I think I have to disconnect the rose joint from the lever to do this on my bike. I think there is also some adjustment in the lever itself - it's a slot that the rose joint attaches to on the lever, although instructions say to centre the rose joint in that slot and only seem to indicate using the left or right parts of that slot based on footpeg position (a combination of rod length and position in the slot is specified for each footpeg position). The instructions don't actually seem to mention adjusting the lever position - only the footpeg.
Ah maybe the rizoma are slightly different then! I have the performance ones on my v4 and had loads of adjustment! I’m sure there’s a way to do it, have a play around
So I loosened the bolt that holds the lever to the bit that the QS attaches to in order to see if sliding it along would provide sufficient adjustment. I set my torque wrench to the specified 10nm and turned… and turned… and turned. FFS. It looks like they used a Nyloc nut for some unknown reason and it couldn’t even be loosened and tightened back up without giving up. Does anyone have any idea where to get that Nyloc nut (part 4B on the instructions) or would any old nut that fits the bolt and fits in to the gap available be ok with some threadlock? Given the apparent lack of spares available for these DP rearsets I’m half tempted to just put some CNC or Gilles ones on there. I find it quite unbelievable that simply loosening and tightening back up is something that the nut was unable to deal with. I’m expert level at over-tightening bolts but I had the torque wrench on this one!
What could go wrong……. You could of measured it before in reference to the footpeg height difference then rebuilt it wherever the same difference…
That’s not the issue - I know exactly where it was set to. The issue is that the nut would not tighten to torque after being loosened. It’s like it was designed to be tightened up once and that’s all it can cope with.
