what advantage is an stm engine breather over standard?

Discussion in 'Ducati General Discussion' started by zxrjohn14, Jun 10, 2012.

  1. I've got an stm anodised engine breather. Its just straight through in the center, about 20mm.
    Why would this be better,if at all over the standard breather?
    Thanks
    John
     
  2. Not sure but I had a leaking standard one and it made a bit of a mess... had mine fixed....Would be interested to know myself....I think possibly just a bling thing.
     
  3. If it's a straight-through breather then it's designed for use with a larger (usually underseat) breather/catch tank and a reed valve in the airbox. This setup is/was used on race bikes to give less crankcase pressure, by effectively increasing the crankcase volume and the larger tank helps prevent oil getting into the airbox under extreme conditions, it can also hold the engine oil (prevent it escaping all over the rear of the bike/track) in the event of it being 'puked' out.

    Supposedly gives a couple of HP increase at higher revs too, but you need the complete setup to get any benefit and if you fit a reedless breather you should then fit a reed valve further up the system in the airbox.

    An open breather with K&N filter means you lose the effect of negative pressure from the airbox to the crankcases and you will likely get oil over your rear tyre...
     
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  4. I think I read somewhere the 999 749 stock one works pretty well... Think Shazamm said it? Also said no point in changing it and avoid the K&N one just incase it does a piss on your rear tyre........
     
  5. I have the K&N on my mash up, simply because I couldn't be arsed to do yet another mod to the air box to take the original set up.
    You leave the valve in place and pop the filter on top.

    No probs so far and no sign of any oil/misting...:upyeah:
    I may mod it to fit under the seat at some point, I'll need a different valve as the 1098 one is at the wrong angle - it points forwards!
     
  6. I am in in the middle of fitting an underseat oil catch tank.I plan to 'core' the oe breather out of the crankcase, run silicone pipe from it to the catch tank, the overflow then runs directly into the airbox, this having a mini K&N filter on the end.

    Would it make a difference if I fitted a oe type breather in the airbox instead of the K&N?
     
  7. Ok.
    Where would i get the reed valve from?
    Tbh i think its something i May do over winter when i strip and rebuild it.
    Is there any diagrams that anyone knows of i can look at. Like where to fit this reed when/if i can get one.
    Thanks
     
  8. Srad34, where and how have you done the catch tank.
    Have you any pictures to give me some ideas?
     
  9. Part no. 59310192A but long since discontinued, you might be lucky and find one somewhere? The actual working part is basically the same as the reed valve on the crankcase (less the oil return hole) but in a different housing - you could modify a standard part but it is bulkier unless you can engineer a new case.

    Fits here;

    [​IMG]

    (on the right under the fuel line) and is plumbed into the outlet of the breather box.
     
  10. heres what i did as that part isnt available any more and rare to find a second hand one...cut across the std 999 valve here
    valve 007.jpg

    then clean it flat

    valve 007.jpg
     
  11. now you can either glue the two parts together or get an alloy adaptor turned i went for the alloy option

    cant post a picture atm as the system wont let it.......
     
  12. The catch tank is one off made in alloy (layout copied from a corse one), to fit 'in' the subframe. It only works on the alloy monoposto subframe as the ECU has to sit above it where the toolkit tray sits on a biposto. (Its approximately 2 litre volume)

    I will add some pics tomorrow as I will hopefully be fitting the extended loom/relays and undertray.
     
  13. Here's mine, there are basically 2 versions; this which allows the ECU to be fitted under the seat and the larger version that completely fills the seat hump void meaning the ECU (916, 748, 996) needs to be relocated.

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Just want to thank people for input pictures.
    I am going to strip and rebuild the bike over the colder months so will be using this thread as reference.
     
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