Have changed the battery and plugs and checked the connectors (the ones i can see) to try and get the bike started first time every time. What should i try next? Is there a way of telling if the starter motor is ok? A noise i should listen for for example? Thanks.
Here is how it sounds when starting. You can see when i first turned it on the orange light came on for the Immo 37.0 error. I take it off charge and the battery is at 12.4 ish, a few goes at starting and it drops quite quickly to around 11.7. I'm thinking of changing the starter. Found a video that shows how to do it. The only way to get to one of the bolts is by removing the left side engine casing which i need a special tool for, is that correct or is there another way?
I'd have thought you'd want a bit more than 12.4v from a fully charged battery...... Have you tried disconnecting the rear view camera before starting it up ? ( I think that's what it is anyway) And off topic.....do you have a link for the rear view camera you fitted
Brand new battery aswell. Once it starts ( once in a blue moon) it shoots up to 14.4v and stays there constantly. Have tried it before fitting the camera and it was the same (as have only just got/fitted it) and tried it with it disconnected and still the same. I went for one of these - Pyle PLCM32 3.5" Universal Mount Rear View and Backup Distance Line Camera | eBay You will also need a mount, mine is the BikePenR DUC 1 - Product Info and a case for the screen, i went for an iPhone 6 one from eBay.
Cheers buddy.... What battery was it ? Perhaps it doesn't have a high enough cold cranking amp rating (CCA) ? Think a 999 OEM battery is around 180-190 CCA....
I just swapped from a Yuasa with 210CCA (which i don't think had anything wrong with it, will put it in my other bike) to a Motorbatt with 200CCA. Both give the same starting result so i don't think it is the battery. With the camera set up i also binned off the wing mirrors so had to buy Oberon blanking plates and indicators, so there is the expense of those to consider too.
What size is the battery & type? Has it been fully charged prior to attempt? According to the manual I have you check the starter motor by removing and checking under no load conditions, which seems a bit of a faff. Might also be the solenoid, that should be easier to check and removes another component from the list. Usually that's a resistance check. Have you invested in a set of @Exige cables? My 1098 was never that bad but a new battery and then the cables made the starter motor fly, it was noticeably quicker and started faster. Other obvious I suppose is earth cable to frame, battery connections, solenoid connections and starter motor connections all clean and tight with no dielectric grease on the terminals. I'm no expert, but that's just the route I'd take.................................the other thing as @Jody pointed out 12.4 Volts seems a tad low on a brand new battery, although I'd have thought under normal circumstances enough to start it. You would not be the first person to get a brand new DUFF battery either.
Its slightly bigger than the Yuasa which was in there as i had to remove the two rubber prongs that fill the gap at the back, and the rubber tray that make the Yuasa high enough. This Motorbatt one is taller. The shop said the battery can go straight in without needing a charge . I do have Exige cables on there, yes. I have to be honest (sorry Exige) but i didn't notice a difference once they were fitted. My bike (if it doesn't start first time) still does the cutting out thing where the power cuts out, dash resets, DTC goes off etc. I would imagine that is more down to my bike than the cables though, and i will get set for the 999 too. Have been googling a lot recently for pointers and there is a lot of threads and people with hard starting 1198's. Seems quite common. Doesn't help though. I've not tried to start it since Monday, will try again now.
+1 As @Old Jock says with the starter cables..... As soon as I have the spare cash I'll be getting some...from the videos I've watched on YouTube they make a hell of a difference......
Was the 12.4v charged on the dash display or multimeter ? I've heard the dash display can be a bit optimistic sometimes......
From your descriptions then it sounds one of 2 things, either the starter motor or the battery if you've eliminated everything else I would certainly fully charge any battery before putting it into the bike. Next if its bogging that badly then either the battery is running out of puff or the starter motor is consuming one helluva current...............sounds like your volts are dropping way way down and everything is resetting.............wouldn't do the ECU many favors either I'd have thought Anyway get the fairings of the bike and have another go, if its the starter and the battery is doing its thing I would pretty much bet that the starter if its duff will be getting well hot, that energy has to go somewhere John
I have two spare starter motors so was going tot try to change that, looks quite a large job though due to having to get that engine casing off. I have new oil and a filter anyway so might just have to give it a try.
Just went to try and start it, almost went. Was far from instant though, was after couple of minutes of trying. It's been on an Optimate since Monday, battery was at 12.2. Is it possible an electrical cable somewhere touching something it shouldn't be could be draining the battery? Not too up on electrics.
No problem - it will be good to see what the issue is as I want to construct a trouble shooting guide with anything associated with starting - real world issues help this but unfortunately don't help you
