Ime, conventional dry clutches are very tolerant of a lower then recommended stack height but not higher. As I understand it though, slipper clutches need to be spot on and invariably have a friction plate first.
It does say in instruction that might need to use 2mm steel plates if 1.5mm don't work out. Why does it need to be a friction plate first? Im guessing i may need to buy some 2mm steel plates then.
I don't know why slipper clutches tend to have a friction plate first. In your case though, the basket has curved ends to the slots, so putting a friction plate in first is likely to have a significant effect on the effective stack height and quieten the clutch as well .
So me putting a steelplate on first will damage the bike or effect the operation of the clutch? I am looking at getting 2mm steel plates but cant find any available only available as a clutch kit
Take a look at the worn clutch thread. There are tips on where to get plates in there but I don’t know if they’ll fit your slipper clutch. Because the basket slots are curved the bottom, putting a friction plate in first will allow it to sit lower in the slots. This will give a lower stack relative to the basket, so putting a plain plate in first is likely to have a significant effect
Your instructions say that too high a stack can cause the ball bearings to overflow from the ramps. That sounds as though it could cause damage and putting a plain plate in first will probably push the stack up the basket
I think what i will do is remove that steel plate and replace the 1.5mm steel plates with 2mm steel plates which should give me the correct stack height and operation of my clutch
As you can see the instruction have an example with 2mm steel plates? So im thinking maybe try it with 2mm plates? Also iv attached a measurement that is included in the instructions but not fully sure what that is. Really wish i didnt bother with the slipper now more hassle than its worth
I know bugger all about slipper clutches but you have posted 2 different sets of instructions. One with 7 friction plates and 2mm plain plates, the other with 8 friction plates and 1.5mm plain plates, entirely different set ups. If you swap all the 1.5mm plates for 2mm ones and retain the 8 friction plates the stack height will surely be too high. I'm running my 907ie with 1.5mm plates throughout which enabled me to fit an extra friction plate and achieve the required stack height. The greater surface area of 8 plates seems like a better idea to me. I would keep the 1.5mm plates but swap some with 2mm plates until you get the desired stack height.
Far too much hassle for my taste, especially as you have to regularly dismantle, clean and regrease the assembly. If you’re not racing, why bother?
[QUOTE="Old rider, post: 1089925, member: 28306"]I don't know why slipper clutches tend to have a friction plate first. In your case though, the basket has curved ends to the slots, so putting a friction plate in first is likely to have a significant effect on the effective stack height and quieten the clutch as well .[/QUOTE] The toothed hub rises up on the ramps, if a steel goes in first when the hub rises the steel can drop of the back of the hub which can then jam it up altogether. Steve
You can put 2 steels together it makes no odds. My EVR was biting too high up so I've added a steel and it's miles better now. I find I add and swap around as the clutch puts more miles on. Still going ok tho and the best thing I've ever bought for a duc.
Indeed. The steels all engage on the hub and the frictions all engage on the basket, so steels don’t rotate relative to each other, only relative to friction plates and vice versa. It’s important to have a steel at the top though because if you have a friction plate at the top, it will rotate against the aluminium pressure plate and you don’t want that.
Thanks guys that is helpful what i will do is remove the steel plate that i put in first and put it in next to another steel plate close to the top of the stack height. Tried and error by the sounds of it these slipper clutches didn't help my instructions were in Italian
It was the same with the EVR. A crock of shit. Another note is bleed the slave backwards. 2 syringes. Small piece of tube Fill one syringe with fluid and place on slave. Open reservoir and suck out old stuff. Open slave bleed and force fluid in removing old stuff and air . Once new stuff full to top nip up nipple and replace master cover Wipe down job done easy
I did bleed that out but gonna have to do it again becauze i treated myself to Rizoma reservoir's at Ducati Newyork recommend going if anyone is visting NYC its in SOHO and rizoma stuff if much cheaper Plus they have a brand new 1098 street fighter S for sale at $14500 couldnt believe it 0miles on the clock
Sounds good. Could you not do this with one syringe by sucking the old fluid from the reservoir first, clean out the syringe with some fresh fluid, then fill with more fresh fluid and force it into the slave bleed nipple? Or is the idea to keep clean and dirty fluid and syringes entirely separate?
Yes keep them separate plus if you keep taking the syringe off you will keep putting air in it. Go to the chemist for the bigger syringes . I'm lucky my wife gets out of date ones
I also do this with my brakes and all my MTB brakes. Never fails as the air is going up with the old shite.
