Hi everyone. I'm posting this to ask some advices on how to move on. My bike (multi 1200s 2010) has at the moment 45k miles on the clock. I've installed an Oberon clutch slave some time ago. Replaced the oil in the clutch lines in April. Since then I've done 3k Miles and this is what I've noticed so far: Very difficult to change to lower gears. I need to press the lever a few times to move from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st. Always a mission to find neutral. Sometimes at high speed and high rev (if I'm pushing it and changing gears quickly) when I change from 5th to 6th it slips, and goes back to 5th. It sounds almost like it goes to neutral but when I glance at the dashboard I can see it's back on 5th gear. On my last ride I was in 2nd gear and when I accelerated moving away from the traffic light it went in neutral. Is it about time to change the clutch plates? Shall I change the basket too? Or is just that on this bike I have to change the clutch oil every 500 miles to be happy? If I need to change the plates, any advice on a good brand? Thanks again for all your inputs.
In order to provide advice regarding the clutch plates/basket etc, I suggest that you whip the cover off and remove the pressure plate and plates - that will allow you to look at the plates, hub and basket.
just a suggestion as i have been down this route, after spending £1400 on a new clutch even a tiny bubble in the clutch fluid will make a difference, my quick fix is to tape it back to the bar overnight, i fitted an oberon slave and took me days to get it working 100%, my clutch fluid goes dark after few months so its regularly changed also worth checking whether all the connections and rose joints are in good fettle, my quick shfter was catching make it hard to get in certain gears, it was so subtle and un obvious, close close inspection found it changed the o rings in the gear shift pivot a few weeks ago and there was a significant improvement as well gear changes are a delight, very precise and effortless
Note that you need 45mm clutch springs as supplied OEM. A lot of the aftermarket ones are 41mm and cause problems.
It also looks like if I want to just look at the plates and in case then replace them i will need to buy 2 specialist tools to deassemble and reassemble them service tool 88713.3408 centring tool part no. 88713.3352 typical ducati.
If anyone has done this before I would like to hear what plates they have bought and how long did it take them.
Sorry, I am unsure apologies if I have made an incorrect assumption- does a Mulri 1200 have a wet or dry clutch? If dry, I doubt you need any special tools to remove the pressure plate and plates. If wet - sorry, I have no experience of that type of clutch.
It’s a while since I worked on changing clutches and cylinders but there used to be two different size pistons/spacers supplied with the slave cylinders depending on the model it was going on. I think the push rods were different lengths. As mentioned air in the system causes issues as does the incorrect order of the clutch plates. On a slipper clutch if you put the plates in the wrong order the first plate drops down the back of the basket and jams. To me I would guess air if it started since you changed the oil. I never used any tool when fitting new plates or baskets. The plates go on a spline.
Though I have no experience of servicing the wet clutch, your problem doesn’t sound like a clutch issue to me. it sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaging when you pull the clutch lever, and that is far more likely to be a problem with the hydraulic system than a worn out clutch giving those issues. Try bleeding or replacing the clutch fluid again first.
I do that every time I bleed the clutch. But I'm getting bored of having to do every 600 miles just to have it working. I'm gonna try again and see if it makes a difference.
If it’s ok for 600 miles after your fettling it’s unlikely the clutch unit itself. I had similar a number of years ago with a big adventure bike. Turned out to be a master cylinder allowing very small amounts of air into the system without leaking fluid itself. For the price of a cylinder rubber kit I would give that a go. Once fitted and bled, tie the lever back to the bars over night to remove any micro bubbles from the system.
i'm glad you posted above, I posted uncannily similar advice just this morning. The number of people that i've suggested this to over the years who have point-blank refused to accept it as a possibility, this and an alternative possibility of the air being admitted via less than perfect sealing at banjo joints, but the former happens far more frequently, and just goes undetected.
My panigale does exactly the same. Crack the bleed nipple a tiny bit at the bar, smallest air bubble comes out and away you go. As its a track bike I've never bothered sorting it, but a new seal kit would do the trick
