Still waiting on parts. Ordered new shift fork with all hardware and also new belts etc while it's down. Report back once I get the parts. Thanks for asking.
Finally got the parts and some time to work at my 1098. Happy Days. What follows not so much. I have refreshed all the part except the back plate. New springs, fork arm etc. I used a micrometer to get the arm in the middle lik in desmo werx video. Got them really close, like 9.55mm and 9.50mm on the other side. If I trust my micrometer that is. As seen in picture I have aligned the selector fork with the arm and tighten it. Still got the same issue. Unless I really push the gear leaver really hard and some times even then I end up between gears. I can see how the drum some times stops between gears and sometimes in falls into the right position, other times not. What would be the next step? Could it have something to do with part 1 - 4 and 7-10 in parts diagram?
If you are confident it is all set up correctly, I'd close it all up and go for a test ride. I do remember that my last engine build didn't really engage the gears well on the bench, very similar symptoms as yours, but when the engine was running all was fine and it worked as it should.
I think it would be the same as before. When I rode it before disassembly there where no issues. I only got between gears when standing still. Which it haven't done before.
The ending up between gears is a new thing. The bike have never done that before. That's why I disassemble it in the first place. So the work on the selector claw did nothing.
I see you have the tool already, Brad Black has a simple video where he mentions how you can measure the fore and aft travel to confirm if it is centred. I use this way to check mine. Also without the wheel/gearbox turning it's never going to shift as nicely.
Thank you. Tried that as well. The fork is in the center. Even though i roll the rear wheel same issue occurs. It's like something inside is slipping or not grabbing so the drum ends up in between gears. I've started to remove panels, gas tank etc. Question, does anyone now I I need to remove the throttle body or can it stay in position and I just lower the engine?
Likewise. When I swapped the gearbox in my Monster, I set the shift as best I could by eye/measurement but it needed the cover on to remove play in the linkage due to not being supported. Also, sometimes tricky to engage whilst stationary so I wasn't 100% certain if good but the true test is when it's running and all was good.
Yes, you need to remove them. Airbox and throttles come out as one piece. Disconnect cables at throttle, jubilee clips on each inlet rubber and a few pipes is about all that’s needed. Remove the ignition switch to give you more room.