Any Painters/decorators About

Discussion in 'Lounge' started by Andy Bee, Jun 15, 2026.

  1. Just giving a couple of the window frames a summer freshen up, you know just sanding away the loose and flaky stuff ready for a little paint. But it's always the same bits that need doing, and those are the right angle edges on various pieces where the paint is thin.

    So how do you actually apply the paint (brush) to ensure these edges get sufficient coverage?

    window.jpg

    window1.jpg
     
  2. Good prep. Paint the external angle first. Use a self-priming paint like Zinsser
     
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  3. Those edges look like they need some filler as the woods starting to decay..
    Ronseal rapid set wood filler..
    Sand and shape
    Prime sanded woodwork with Zinser BIN primer
    Paint with a proper outdoor wood paint probably twice.
     
  4. I hear you... I had a little pick and they're not that bad but I was going to use some Rustins wood hardener and Toupret external wood filler if required.

    Another vote for Zinser I see.

    It's the actual paint application that bemuses me. If you use length ways brush strokes the paint flows on the top and side but not on the edge. And if you use brush strokes across then it either runs down the front or forms a lip on the top.... :thinkingface:
     
  5. occupational hazard - those areas get weathered the hardest
    sand back to good and fill and rub back as needed
    3 coats; 1 primer 2 top (flatten between two top coats). speak to your local merchant and ask for a high build exterior paint suitable for wood
    get decent brushes that leave the paint on the surface - again, your merchant will know what suits your paint/application best
     
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  6. I always think the primer is the key (pardon the pun) then the top coat is the decorative icing on the cake.
    Re- applying the paint, 2 coats minimum and in varying directions to ensure it finds its way in, if you can be bothered a quick sand with finishing paper between coats to really make it look good.
     
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  7. Try to avoid sharp (ish) angles. Sand any angles to round them slightly to ensure good contact and coverage.
     
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  8. I have, and tend to use, the more prosaic option of Dulux Weathershield which has served me well in the past.

    And yes, I've learnt me lesson with cheap brushes.
     
  9. Shittest job ever, get a pro in and swallow it.
     
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  10. Not a painter/decorator
    My experience is as follows
    Sanded and prepared upstairs bedroom windows, used Wickes paint, 18 months later it literally fell off, pieces of top coat and undercoat came away
    Did a bit of research was recommended Johnstones primer and macpherson undercoat and top coats
    3yrs later still all good
    The macpherson paint went on well unlike the Wickes water based porridge
     
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  11. Are those oil-based paints? I've got no faith in water-based exterior paint.
     
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  12. Johnstones is alkyd
    Macpherson I used is oil based but they make various types
    Night and day compared to water based carp
     
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  13. This is the stuff I used, apparently there are many alternatives upload_2026-6-17_15-1-36.jpeg
     
  14. I’ve always found the best way to avoid shittest jobs is not to think they are shittest jobs in the first place. It does help I’m retired and at the risk of being a pretentious knob the old Zen saying comes to mind “before enlightenment chop wood, carry water after enlightenment chop wood, carry water” : unamused:

    Besides I’m not sure pros would be fighting over a two window sill touch up job.
     
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  15. I’ve used Johnstone’ interior emulsion and was really pleased with it. Good coverage and uniform colour even when touching up parts and rollering over the cut-ins.

    For this job, touching up old water based painted frames, I stuck to the same other wise I’d probably have to have painted the complete window. Yep, a bodge but the frames are near to end of life and we may well be moving house… ahem.

    Next door has got a large two story garage/out building and they were having the doors & windows professionally decorated. I got talking to them and they used water based paints but before each brush application they wetted the surface with a sponge and just did a rough coat not worrying about coverage. Dry in 2 hours, a quick sand and then repeat a couple more times.

    So when I use water based I have a little bowl of water and just touch the brush in it every now and again and this helps with a smoother application and stops the brush from clogging up. Plus for water based you need synthetic bristle brushes.

    I think oil based is best on bare wood external frames (before fitting) when you can do a thorough prep job but it still has it’s disadvantages, it takes an age to dry, it stinks, it’s not the best for the environment and you need a gallon of white spirits for brush cleaning.
     
    #15 Andy Bee, Jun 26, 2026 at 11:09 AM
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2026 at 1:07 PM
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