1200 DVT Setting The Preload By Measuring Static Sag

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Jackstraw, Aug 1, 2017.

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  1. Loving the 1200S I bought over the weekend, I've only done a few miles on it so far but its all good!
    Couple of newbie questions that I couldn't find an answer for in the Manual

    The dash has a couple of small led's flashing when the bike is turned off. Mine doesn't have an aftermarket alarm fitted and I don't believe the bike came with one as standard - what is flashing and why?

    I've not had electronic suspension on any previous bikes and so to set up the bike I have always started by measuring the amount of static sag when I sit on it and adjusted the preload accordingly before then working on the compression and rebound.

    It seems that the electronic wizardry on the 1200S means that the suspension is much harder in the first place which in turn means static sag cannot be worked out the old way. How do I go about finding the baseline setting for my preload for front and rear before fine tuning that by adjusting the comp and rebound via the menu

    Many thanks
     
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  2. The red ring light you refer to is just the immobiliser blinking. It stops after a while of being left alone and is perfectly normal.

    Are you trying to set static with the bike off? At power off, I do believe all suspension settings are set to max or a setting that is basically, I'm tall and won't budge. The suspension only loosens up when the bike is on.
     
  3. Red flashing lights are the immobiliser. - It stays flashing for a day or 2 after you power off the bike.

    The standard suspension settings - with exception of fork preload is good for most people.

    The fork preload is adjusted on right hand fork.

    Unwind (19mm) nut - then wind it in to suit your weight.

    As a rule of thumb 1 turn per 15KG of body weight

    So if your weight with gear is 105 KG - you would wind in 7 turns.

    You may find that a little hard and may need to back off 1/2 to 1 turn.
     
  4. I think you will find that the flashing red light will stop flashing after 24 hours, so nothing sinister. If you search within this section of the forum using the search function at the top of the page, setting pre load is discussed at length. Forget sag, it's a simple equation of turns/rider weight in kilos. Enjoy. Andy
     
  5. The fork preload is adjusted on right hand fork.

    Unwind (19mm) nut - then wind it in to suit your weight.

    As a rule of thumb 1 turn per 15KG of body weight


    Thanks guys, appreciate your comments
    Simon - For my body weight and riding style I tend to favour a couple of extra turns on the front preload, in the past I would turn the screw in to the stop and then count as I unscrew. If as you suggest - I unwind first is there a stop so I know where I have got to the point when to I start counting as I screw in (if you get what I mean, I've just re-read that and I think it makes sense!)

    Cheers
     
  6. Have a look in the multi section there is a long thread on pre load on the left fork, how to do it, what it does etc

    The rear is electronically set via the dash
     
  7. Thanks Bradders. I did have a look but only came across one thread which seemed a bit vague as to how many turns etc. I'll have a better look at the forum later
    Cheers
     
  8. Just wind it out till it wont wind anymore

    Then wind in number turns - there are 2 arrows on nut and fork - but you can ignore them - I use a T handle 19mm and just count revs.

    I appreciate you normally like firm ride - if so just try the 15KG per turn - as a start point 1/2 to 1 turn makes a big difference.

    Put a tie rap on fork and that way when you ride you see if you are using all the 170mm or half - ideally on a spirited ride you want to use a total of about 150mm - leaving a bit in reserve (measured with all weight off the wheel - so on centre stand and back strapped down - so front is off ground)
     
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  9. Still not 100% if the sports bike rules a apply on a multi, i.e. 1/3rd travel as rider sag.
     
  10. Bear in mind any bump stop that means the last 5mm or whatever is inaccessible anyway
     
  11. Yes, it can be done. I had mine done at Silverstone by the suspension guys. They used a tape measure on the front and back. I've attached the doc that they gave me:

    IMG_0294.JPG
     
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  12. Are you running skyhook?
     
  13. Yes, it's a Skyhook
     
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  14. It took me a whille to figure out what the measurements mean but it seems to go something like this;
    A) measure total sag from on front and rear with bike on centre stand. Front was measured from the fork seal, didn't see the rear ref point.
    B) from the manual we know that full suspension travel is about 170mm front and rear.
    C) therefore we want a sag about 1/3 to 1/2 of travel which is 50-60mm.
    D) I sit on the bike and preload is adjusted to achieve this differerence. Hence the 115 and 570 value.

    Does that make sense?
     
  15. Total sense and how you would normally do it. Wasn't sure how that would work with the active suspension, but then I guess spring weight is still the determiner for static travel. Not sure enough of how the default c=changes by mode, e.g. is default sport automatically firmer/less sag than default touring.

    Really useful to know tho, one for @Wayne58 to have a go at next ;) :upyeah:
     
  16. This is done static so applies to all modes, it's the compression/rebound that makes the difference for each mode after that. Having said that, you do have the ability to alter the rear preload for each mode if you wish to do so through the dash. You mentioned this in the previous thread about low pre-load for urban. Good example of how it can be adapted to a environment
     
  17. Yes, and I use a different one in sport too so it lifts the bike and sits higher for ground clearance as well as being firmer.
     
  18. I set both front and rear sag with engine running , using traditional methods- bar setting rear preload though the menu options which was a first

    Made a huge difference
     
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