I have a 2000 model 900ss ie with the intensions of fitting a 2009 Multistrada 1100s motor. The 1100 motor does not have swingarm bearings in the crankcases(as the 900 does). Has anybody got info of how this is done mating the 900ss swing arm to these cases?( I see other bikes on the web with motor swops). I have some ideas but it would be interesting to see how others have tackled the problem. I have all the wiring, ecu etc.etc. including the handlebar switchgear and throttle twist grip so hopefully a complete transplant. It appears to have Termignoni 2 into 1 headers and has a Power commander 5 hooked up as well. It should be a fun project!!
Bound to be more info along soon, not something I’ve looked at but just found this: – (pictures six is relevant) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-1100evo-Engine-Crankcase-Only-no-Heads-/264482712707
^ Maximum methodical thoroughness as ever Sev. JFI:- @2moto is considering a similar theme. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/monster-1100-engine.73393/#post-1455224
Thanks for the input! I was hoping not to have to machine the engine cases. I don't think needle roller bearings in this application are ideal and a bush of some sort would be better. VESCONITE has been suggested by a mate who runs a machine shop. The bore is 20mm and 139mm width. The swingarm is approx. 180mm between the clamping sections. Ideally, it would be easier if I had a spare swingarm to adapt to the cases before I do the swop! I have several ideas but I wanted to see if there are any tried and tested methods done in the past. I have a Lathe and Mill/drill so hopefully a home workshop mod. Cheers Ian.
This is Plan "A"! The bore size of the swingarm bosses and the bore size in the c/cases is 20mm. My idea was to make 20mm OD(16mmID) bushes out of Vesconite and tap them into the c/cases. Probably easier to make up two bushes and fit from either side rather than one long one. In the swingarm bosses, make up 20mm OD(16mmID) split sleeves in aluminium. These can have a shoulder on them that goes to the inside so they can't slide out of the swing arm bosses. These will pinch the 4140 pivot. The pivot shaft that would be pinched by the split sleeves in the swing arm and is 16mm 4140 P.G.(P.G. is precision ground)steel and would pivot in the Vesconite bushes in the c/cases. To get the correct clearance/float I would make up aluminium spacers with ID clearance for an o' ring to keep out dirt ingress. If I need to make up thin shims to get the correct "float" I can make them out of shimstock and they can go between the split sleeve in the bosses and aluminium spacer. I hope this all makes sense?
I have thought about this but I'd need to get a single side swingarm, wheel etc.etc. as I don't have any of that stuff currently.
Not sure exactly how a single sided SA crankcase is different from a "proper" one but as I understand your explanation, the lug on the case to take the pivot bearing is narrower. Also as i understand your explanation you will be effectively reducing the diameter of the steel pivot shaft from 20mm to 16mm and taking up the sideways "slop" with split aluminium bushes that clamp into the ends of the SA. Why do you need to reduce the diameter of the pivot shaft at all, you are potentially introducing flex. Why not keep the shaft diameter the same and simply machine a 20mm bore spacer to sit between the crankcase and the RH leg of the SA. Split aluminium bushes appear to me to be an added complication and have potential to end up being corroded in place, given their location and galvanic action. If you are concerned that the 20mm bore spacing bush will seize on the shaft or will act to stiffen the suspension with friction between the crankcase and the end of the SA you could put some needle roller thrust bearings on either end. The standard Monster 900 arrangement simply relies on shim washers. I do however agree with your view that needle rollers in the crankcase for the SA pivot is a bad idea. When I took my SA shaft out you could plainly see the effect of the needles on the shaft and it was particularly noticeable on the chain side where the shock loading is highest I put a grease nipple on my crankcase lug so that the needles now float on a film of grease.
Thanks for the replies and other ideas, it's exactly what I was hoping for! I've a mechanical background but I'm not a draughtsman so trying to work out ways to do things I don't always work out things the best way. Any diagrams of what you guys have come up would be much appreciated. Thanks again.
Yes, about to start on this. I've found an 1100 Monster engine, so swinging arm pivot should be fairly straightforward. I plan on using a loom and electrics from the 1100. But, I want to retain the original dash. Not sure that the 1100 ECU can be reprogrammed to work without the digital dash and immobilizer. Fall back would be to use a loom and ECU from a 999 or 1098 as I know they can be made to work without a dash. I'll also need a tacho off a 900 as ie as the original tacho has a mechanical pickup, which the 1100 obviously doesn't. The only other tricky bits (hopefully!) will be fitting a fuel injection pump inside the original tank and adapting the airbox to the 1100 throttle bodies. Wish me luck!
Engine swap was pretty simple really. Mechanically everything fits. Now the harder part begins, adding and making functional the ECU and wiring loom!
Hi, you could make a very large "bolt". That was used for hyper-engines going into 888. Enlarge the hole in the engine to dia 36mm. Manufacture a big "bolt". With inner diameter 26mm to take original needle bearing for 20mm. Length in total around 170mm Bolt head dia 40mm length 20mm Rest of the bolt dia 36mm Thread the last 20mm . There is a kind of pipe thread that is suitabel Make "nut" dia 50mm thickness 12 mm Adjust the overall width using a shim BR
