Hi, just taken delivery of a monster 695. It was my mother in laws so we know the history. It’s covered 920 miles but been sat in a garden for circa 5-10 years. Today I have replaced the belts, oil, filters, drained the tank, replaced the fuel, new battery and spark plugs. The engine was then turned over with the rear wheel and then with the starter (without plugs/fuel) before firing her up. Surprisingly bikey was quite eager to start but once running was immediately apparent that something was up. Significant clattering sound from engine. No idea why. I’ll try and link a YouTube video. The belt pulley marks were all aligned and I marked up and counted individual teeth so the new ones went on as they came off. I did just notice that the Haynes manual says you should slacken the bolts within the cam pulley which I didn’t do and I’ve never heard of that being done so maybe there lies the issue. Seems unlikely. Can anyone help?
I don't know what is making your noise but I wouldn't be starting her that sounds metal on metal !! Good luck dude !
Thanks! Seems reasonable. Elsewhere I’ve been advised to just let it run because oil might not have made it to the top end! Does anyone know whether this dot on the silver plate should be lined up with the dent on the pulley? On the vert it is but this photo is the horizontal. I gather these are adjustable so it may be ‘correctly adjusted’ so I don’t want to go messing with it but why have dots if they don’t line up right??
That's not a lack of oil on startup. As above ^^ it sounds like a valve hitting the piston, and going by your picture the belt can have jumped a tooth. Not a big job to whip the head off and check.
So thanks for the guidance. The adjustable pulley was the problem. I’ve put it back to TDC, slackened the three bolts and rotated the inner bit of the pulley (attached to the shaft) back so that the dots inside match the notch on the pulley. Nervously started it and it sounded fine. Obviously I’m conscious that it could have done some damage but the fact that it’s running ok leaves me with some hope that only being half a tooth out didn’t do any major damage. It only ran for a maximum of a minute in a couple of short runs. Not sure how to check to be fair so maybe just see how it goes. Thanks again.
You didn’t loosen it off and adjust it then when changing the belts? Just curious as there’s no reason too, but hey, I’ve done things on my bikes when there’s no reason to
Do a compression check on that cylinder to see if you have bent a valve, you seem to be half a tooth out so about 20 degrees out (advanced on valve timing)
Nope. Not entirely sure why the Haynes manual recommends it but fortunately I didn’t read that until after doing the belts. YouTube was my manual for that and I’ve never seen anyone mess with them when changing belts!
Thanks, good advice. I’ve just been out and checked and got 120psi on both cylinders. My service manual indicated that 9bar is optimum and 8 is minimum. 120psi = 8.25bar so it seems a bit low but as both cylinders are equal I’m not going to worry as it could just be the gauge isn’t that accurate. Incidentally we’ve got another 695 with 14 times the mileage and that makes 110psi by this gauge and it runs fine. Once the bikes all tarted up it’s getting ridden to a Ducati specialist for MOT so I’ll be able to get them to give it all a once over.
Also, the compression test probably would have been higher if it wasn’t for my anxious brain stopping me from opening the throttle (incase it started the engine at full throttle and blew up... ahem) so I only had the cold start lever pulled.
Having spent ages recently trying to set my cams on my M900 using the peak opening method I am pretty sure the cam ramps are actually quite shallow and 20 degrees advance would probably only be about 0.1 to 0.2 of a mm lift so barely more than the right tolerance for the opening shim. I think you have had a lucky escape as the piston has barely kissed the valve.
PS I noticed that if I set it up and then tensioned the belt, the timing moved by up to about 15 degrees, as the tensioner bearing works on the trailing part of the belt and applying the correct tension moves the belt clockwise and retards the cam pulley. Your vernier pulleys allow you to get the timing spot on after you have tensioned and I am told getting them both within c2 degrees pays dividends in smooth running.
On the DS and later 2V engines(and presumably the 695) you are supposed to lock the camshaft with a special tool inserted into the camshaft support on the opposite side of the head. This holds the camshaft at the timing position. (The crankshaft is supposed to be locked with a special tool too.) With the camshaft locked the 3 screws can be loosened so that when tensioning the new belt there is no tension on the belt from the camshaft closer springs. After the belt is tensioned the screws are tightened again. That's the proper procedure which Haynes must be using but you can use the older method with each belt tensioned with that cylinder at TDC and valves closed but you must not loosen the screws or you end up with your situation which, thankfully, seems to have turned out OK.
Yeah plugs out, sorry only just saw these replies!! I’ve started a new thread about what I thought was a separate issue but it’s looking like the two might be related now! https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threa...ne-cylinder-smoke-exhaust-and-very-hot.76440/
