what make is your new slave? Just as can happen with aftermarket clutch components, brake levers etc, for some reason the manufacturers sometimes see fit to alter a few dimensions, and sometimes they alter dimensions that are important. There is a chance that this is what has happened here.
So I’ve checked and the chain is 525 for standard. the clutch and basket were genuine OEM parts the replacement slave cylinder is an Oberon unit
ok, rules out the "dimension" theory, thanks for quick feedback. P.S. yes, wasn't suggesting "other end" of clutch was a factor here, just adding how many owners struggle to get clutch working properly after fitting non-O.E.M. parts.
Suggest putting the slave back on without sprocket cover and looking to see why chain is interfering with it.
well i think the issue is that the internal part of the slave cylinder has spun and I'm assuming it isnt meant to given that if the recessed part was facing towards the chain it wouldnt have made contact. I imagine that the X-notch in the slave is supposed to lock into something.... which isnt present
I have enclosed a standard slave for comparison, have fitted many Oberon over the years, they are certainly a good alternative, but I think you might be right about the body somehow rotating in the clutch slave housing. I can’t see with hundred percent clarity, but it looks as though your most cutaway portion is 180° out?
the single slot in your above pic is there to locate with an "anti-rotate" pushrod if you happen to have fitted one, they are interchangeable with the "ordinary" type, but make sure you get the right length.
So Chris, the silver part of the Oberon actually rotates freely so when I initially installed it the orientation of the cutout would have been the same as in your original. I definitely dont have an anti-rotate pushrod though, it spins freely. So is the problem that I dont have the anti-rotate pushrod or that something has failed in the slave cylinder causing it to spin when it shouldnt? Maybe worth an email to Oberon?
speak to oberon. they should have a lifetime return to base warranty they do sell rebuild kits , so its possible your is coming apart
what is "the silver part"? - is it a secondary housing that then has the piston within it? (can't tell from pictures) if so, then it shouldn't rotate, only the piston rotates erroneously at times/on some bikes hence the introduction of the ant-rotate version. I can see there is a hole in "the silver part" - maybe this is where a dowel or simply a fixing ought to live normally? (which would prevent it rotating?) I haven't bought an Oberon for a few years, so design has obviously changed and as funkatronic says, if a comprehensive rebuild kit is available, then "the silver part" must be easily removable, possibly as above. yes, re: last question.
Wouldn't be the wrong slave cylinder??? Other models of cylinder have a cut out on the silver section at the back....right where yours is rubbing.
Following this thread with interest. I have an Oberon slave cylinder on my bike, I fitted it years ago, and it has been 'fit and forget', as far as I'm concerned; it has worked faultlessly. But I will be interested to hear the resolution of this. Please tell me more about 'anti-rotate' push-rods! That's a new one on me. Are they a straight swap for all Ducatis, or only later models? Not long back I fitted a new set of clutch plates (I deemed that basket and hub were fine at the time). Straightforward job, even for someone with my very limited skills, , but one thing I did notice that felt a little strange was that the push-rod wouldn't rotate. I know the bearing in the pressure plate can fail, but that rotated freely, it was at the 'slave-cylinder end' that the push-road didn't seem to want to rotate. At the time, I put it down to the rod being slightly bent in use. The clutch worked fine, and still does (I have put a fair few miles on it since then).
Still, this thread did encourage me to take the sprocket cover off to examine the horrors behind! (which should be a regular task, as all dedicated Ducati owners know , especially on early bikes with the sprocket retaining plate and the two M5 screws). All looking OK, though.
so just in case anybody was interested in the resolution of this: I fitted a new/used gear selector mechanism and after a brief ride around the block the bike seems to be ok and selecting all gears fine. I sent photos of the slave cylinder to Oberon and they sent me a new item and are investigating the broken part to see why it failed. New issue (SHOCK) - Bike wont start now!! I'm 'hoping' that the issue is just that the battery is just a bit low after having sat for a good few weeks without being used. I was going to buy a trickle charger at some point but it seems that now is the time. Just wondering if: A) anybody has any recommendations B) surely you dont have to take the fairing off every time you want to connect/disconnect a charger? C) Is there a plug to charge the battery or do you just have to connect clips to the +ve and -ve terminals? As always .... any help greatly appreciated!!! Cheers, John
No, you don’t have to remove the panels to connect a charger. If you buy new, the charger should come with leads that you permanently connect to the battery. At the other end is a socket. You route the socket to somewhere convenient (by the clutch slave on a 1098). Then you just connect the charger to the socket when you want to charge the battery.
Buy yourself a trickle charger and it will come with a lead for permanently attaching to the battery. The other end of the lead will have a plug/socket on it which you connect the charger to, rig it up so that connection is just inside the fairing vent and away you go. I use a Ctek charger which works well for me but I'm hearing good things about Noco genius.
just to add to this, I read that some of the bikes were fitted with a battery charging connection from the dealer. After looking at my bike I have this connection which I'm not sure about - is this for the battery or something else?
