My 1260 Multistrada Enduro is the first bike I’ve owned with an Exhaust flap, so I’ve been doing some reading up on here about them. I’ve ascertained that the drive motor is a real pig to get to, and that they only close at @4000RPM to quieten the exhaust down at the testing RPM. I was told when I brought the bike that it was fitted with a devise to fool the ECU into thinking the Motor was still connected. Having taken the cover off I’ve found the control cable is disconnected at the valve. When I power up the bike there is no noise like a motor cycling, and the visible end of the cable doesn’t move. So I have to presume the info at purchase is correct. But it sounds like a bit of a job to strip the bike down enough to check exactly what’s going on at the other end of the cable to this: But the @4000RPM is bugging me. The bike runs and rides really well, but between @3500 and 4500RPM there is a definite difference in how it runs. In that range the exhaust steps up in noise level, and there is far more vibration from the engine, as if it’s not running correctly. I’m wondering if the devise that’s fitted is causing this, as it’s a bit too much of a coincidence for my liking. I know the motor is a pig to get too, but is there a way in to see what’s connected and what’s fitted without too much bother. I do have a borescope, so might be able to shed a little light with that. It would be nice to reconnect the system back up, see if it works and see what effect it has on the running of the bike. .
Assuming you’ve been told the truth and there is an ESE (exhaust servo eliminator) fitted, its a small rectangular device, much smaller than a matchbox (for those that remember them) and it will be on the right hand side of the bike, under the seat, just behind where the rear subframe attaches to the main frame. There are 2 big white plugs there, tucked tightly down the side. One of them will be disconnected and the device plugged into it. When I’m in the workshop in the morning I’ll take some photos as I have a 1260 Enduro with me at present.
I don't think mine cycles at switch on, only when you rev it. My flap (1200 Enduro) is seized fully open but the cables move when I rev it.
Thanks WCP I've found this image of it in a sub assembly which gives me a great clue where to start looking as I have of course seen the height sensor arm attached to the swingarm: I'm sure I've read that the motor cycles at ignition on.
If an eliminator has been fitted, the motor won't cycle. It's disconnected from the loom to fit the ESE. It's worth checking that the valve is fully open. Seen a few that have had an ESE fitted to get around valve issues but the valve had been left where it had seized. If it's wide open, then it won't be causing any problems.
Thanks Nelly. The valve itself isn't seized at all, it's completely free to move, but as I didn't know if it was in the closed or open position at rest before I did any reading up, I removed the silencer for a look and of course found it sits in the open position.
As the valve is free to move I'm assuming the eliminator was fitted either because there is an issue with the drive motor, or a previous owner just wanted to disable it. I'd like to know if it works, but don't want to strip 1/2 the bike to reconnect it. Oh, and of course find out if a cheap and nasty 'gizmo' is causing the running issue either side of 4000RPM.
The device looks like this, whether it’s the Duc-EE or Healtech versions, and plugs into the loom side of the lower of the 2 white plugs in the photo.
For anyone that's interested I have a spare Healtec eliminator which will be going onto the for sale pages in the next few days. It's the ESE-D02 version, common across many Ducati models I believe, do your own check. Not only does the ESE prevent the flapper from closing and showing an error on the dash, in doing so I find it cleans up the response/throttle smoothness around the part of the rev range that it operates. On the Multistrada, combined with throttle spacers and a change in gearing (14/40 or 15/42 from the OEM 15/40 on the regular DVT Multi) it makes the bike better behaved around town and in slow riding situations. £45 inc. UK P&P.
Bumpkin hi. I'm hoping to have a look to see what's fitted to mine in the next couple of hours. If it's an unidentifiable make I'll have a look to see if it will fit my bike.
Wasn't exactly 'pitching' to you @Nasher, just exploiting your thread for my own gain Sounds like you have an ESE fitted. There are a couple of companies that make them.
The spring (see the pic in the OPs first post) holds the flap open and the servo works against that spring. So, in theory, once the servo is disconnected, or the Bowden cable is disconnected from the spool, the valve should be in the open position. However, they do have a tendency to seize and if this is the case it maybe closed or partially closed. You can move it back to open and disconnect or, as I did, wire the valve in the open position. Just disconnecting the servo from the valve, either by unplugging it or unhooking the Bowden cable, will work but throw an error on the dash and log that in memory. The ESE module just fools the bike's electronics into thinking all is well with the flap system and it's working as designed. You can just unhook the Bowden cable from the spool and twist a suitably sized spring onto the bare end of the cable and that will provide enough resistance to fool the system into thinking that the flap, and it's return spring, is still connected.
I've had a look. The motor appears to be still in place and there is a Healtech unit fitted. It's marked ESE D02 230124 on the cable. But it looks like it's been crushed by something as well as melted. I'm assuming it's a solid block of potting around the components: It's not been plugged in at the two white connectors, but you can see where the plug for it has been disconnected further down: When I get more time I'll investigate a bit further and see if I can connect the drive motor back up along with the other end of the cable. The Healtech looks Knackered. Bumpkin, it appears to be the same D02 as your spare one, can you send me some details of how to pay you. As an aside. Does anyone know what this wiring is with COROPLAST and LEONI on it? That's probably the cable manufacturer I realise, but it's the best way to identify it: It looks like it's been added, and is coiled up. The bike has no additional lights or anything. .
Maybe you're somewhat particular like me If it's still working, servo /flap not operating and no error on the dash yours is probably fine. If fitted further down the cable then possibly has come into contact with the exhaust, hence the melting. Will send you details, let me known if you want to proceed. That doesn't look like any wiring under my seat, the cable tie around those other connectors looks like and afterthought too. Maybe try and trace to see where they go. Possibly an alarm or tracker?
I’d say that ESE has seen better days, if it’s like that outside it’s probably like that inside and could be sending diff signals to your ECU hence the issues you experience at 4000rpm just as the ECU is instructing the valve to close. The cable with Coroplast on it looks suspiciously like the rear wheel sensor cable. I’ll check the Leoni ones tomorrow.
Does one of the cables run the lambda v connector? A lot of the cables now have I’d tags that may help?
I've had another look. The COROPLAST I believe goes to the rear shock. The Leoni is the rear wheel speed sensor, but there is loads of it, and the way it's been cable tied up doesn't look standard. I'm wondering if it's an aftermarket one.
