I was about to replace the clutch slave cylinder with an Oberon one but hit a brick wall in that I could not budge the banjo bolt at all! I was just rounding the nut so I had to give up. Any suggestions as to how I tackle this? Also could anyone point me in the direction of a replacement as the outgoing one is going to be mullered when removed. Cheers Dave
Have you got a decent six sided socket in there? It sounds like a deranged Gorilla has fitted it as they shouldn't be that tight. Sometimes a bit of corrosion can occur and they need to be ‘cracked’. Worse case scenario is to weld a nut on the back of the banjo bolt. Edit- decent torque driver should shift it as well. My cordless dewalt does most stuff but I have a mains one for the really tough stuff.
Before you try anything get the slave cylinder warm with a hair dryer or very carefully with a hot air gun. The body of the cylinder is alloy and so will expand to a greater degree than the steel bolt and should help to crack the bolt loose.
Short 6 sided sockets and a decent breaker bar really help in these cases, plus a piece of steel tube for the really tight stuff. But to be honest I tend to break out the torque driver if anything is tight these days. Heat also helps, but not ideal on a clutch slave even if you are going to scrap it if you only have a blowtorch or welder. As mentioned above , heat gun could help.
you turning it the correct way..... as its upside down? I don't believe it will or should be that tight on a copper washer.
have you tried using a punch to give the bolt a good whack with a hammer, also tightening its tiny bit before loosening off? i think the oberon comes with its own bolts 77150652BB
Thanks for all suggestions and interest. It is kept at my mates garage while I get mine sorted, so I only go round on Saturdays for maintenance and Sundays for riding. Hopefully will be back to it on Friday as I have a day off.
No picture of it post mullering. I will take an as is before I attempt again on Friday. I do have some deep 6-point sockets.
nearly all sockets have a "lead-in" chamfer which robs surface area - it's worth grinding this away if you can if using on a shallow hex head and/or it's potentially really tight to undo.
First of all, thanks for all your suggestions and support. The deed is done! I will add that on the Monday or Tuesday I sprayed some penetrative oil in preparation. The socket went on after some persuasive taps, no doubt because of the burring I'd inflicted earlier. The sound of that crack as it gave way was very satisfying I must say. Went out on Sunday with no issues. Thanks again. Dave
