Hi Bumpkin Just had the rear carrier change for the correct one, all good looks just like yours. Happy days
It's normal and sufficient to just change the front sprocket to a 14, or the rear sprocket to a 42, not both at the same time. So 14/40 or 15/42, and that avoids your conundrum.
It’s done 14t to the front bit of a pig to get off nut came of easy but getting the sprocket off the spline with the chain is awkward lost 30 mins before I realised I had to take the slave cylinder off even with it off it’s a bit fiddly but it’s done servo eliminator tomorrow then I think I’m done thanks all for all your help and input it’s much appreciated
Having stuck with the 15/40 ratio with the Pikes Peak, more out of laziness as I have 14T front on the shelf in the garage ordered with good intent before I collected the bike (the dealer had fitted a new OEM chain a sprocket set), the time has come after yesterday, and ahead of Dolomites trip, to swap it out. Yesterday's ride in Wales with numerous 20mph limits highlighted the improvement this brought when I did this with my old 1260 Multi. Was frequently swapping between 1st and 2nd and then on the B roads finding I was mostly in 3rd or 4th. The 14/40 setup would improve both of these scenarios, enabling more of 2nd and 4th respectively. Shame I didn't have the sense to do this when fitting a new chain a few weeks ago. OEM chain had less than 1000 miles on it but looked like sh*t. D ping it then would have made the job so much easier...
Changing the front is a pain, but it can be done, despite the thought it appears to be impossible. I've had mine off and on at numerous times. I couldn't tell you how I actually managed it, but just when you think it will never happen, it finally comes free!
Hall am I right I’ve been reading posts from all forums do I need to do I think a tyre calibration after fitting a 14t front sprocket as this will set everything up again for the dqs thx in advance
Thanks bumpkin armrest the instructions to do it in the manual cheers and is it straight forward to do thank you
In the owners handbook, page 182. It's in the settings menu via the right cluster menu button. You'll need to ride at between 30 and 32 mph for a short distance once you've activated the calibration process this way. Find it in the menu, it tells you what to do so you don't really need to read the handbook.
I hate to disagree but the tyre calibration is solely to teach the wheel sensors, and consequently the various control units they feed into, the new rolling circumference of the tyre. Different manufacturers tyres, due to their different profiles, have different circumferences even if they are marked the same size eg 180/55/17. There is a requirement to do a tyre calibration after fitting new tyres but not after changing the gearing and a tyre calibration will have no affect upon the functioning of the DQS.
That's a good point @West Cork Paul. I must say that I did it making the assumption (possibly harking back to gearing changes on my VFR that had speedo sensor on gearbox output shaft...), when I changed previously to a 14T on my old 1260, that it would be required, though what you say makes sense. Likely to be doing the same (14T front sprocket) to the PP tomorrow. I stand corrected.
I don’t think the 1260 is as technologically advanced as the V4 variants, for on those a gearing change is a no no. For sure, nothing on the face of it will appear adrift but none of the rider safety aids will interrupt as intended/designed and you really don’t want to discover that at the crucial moment. It makes me cringe reading all the FB posts about how people have changed the gearing on their V4 Multis/Hyper 698s/Panigale V4S/Streetfighter V4S etc and “sure ‘tis all grand, no warning lights”. Its all grand until that moment you really really really need the DTC to have kicked in and saved your arse only to realise as you and the bike lie in the hedge that the bike thought you were going just 2kmh slower than the 120 you were doing and it didn’t really need to intervene.
That's definately the case. The 1260 is a very close relation to the 2015 1200 DVT and the tech significantly lags the V4. I've noted that the tyre calibration section of the 1260 handbook states the following: The mention of final drive ratio in both the heading and first paragraph points to a need to recalibrate and likely where I originally, a few years back, got the impression that it was necessary for a gearing change. Absolutely no harm in doing it again so I'll likely do it anyway. I also recall reading, can't recall where, that there is a range limit to gearing change in terms of ratio adjustment related to the tyre calibration. IIRC 14/42, if you wanted to go that far, is outside of this range.
Swapped 15 to 14T this afternoon. Quite a struggle TBH. The stumbling block being the protrusion on the casing for the clutch push-rod blocking the chain. Due to this the tip of one of the teeth on the OEM 15T sprocket wouldn't clear the inside of the links. Finally fed enough of the chain into the area forward of the vertical frame spar immediately to the right to get enough flex to make it work. Removing the chain from the rear sprocket, I realised, was a must. Supporting it on a platform (an old 4l oil tub) prevented the chain being pulled back under its own weight. The chain being an almost new DID x-ring gold number had, to all intents and purposes, no lateral movement. The new JT 14T sprocket went on easily. Obviously should have done this when fitting the new chain... Test ride tomorrow along with a calibration. Fitted new front pads ahead of my Dolomites trip next month. @cookster of this forum did the MOT this morning and reccomended this. Still half of the material still remaining on the old ones but better safe than sorry.
