Happened to read a magazine article where they said they would never use a split link on a drive chain. The reason given was that riveted links are so much stronger and that's what the gut feeling would conclude. Well, it's riveted 'init? But is this really true? I'd have thought the link itself, which would be the same in both cases, takes the high tensile force and not the method used to hold the front plate in position. So how does a split link clip actually fail? Besides which, depending on the competence of the installer, I'd have thought a badly riveted link would be just as much of a liability as a split link clip facing the wrong way.
Well riveted link is best, but I agree a split link could be better than a badly riveted chain, Depends how much power is being transmitted through the chain as well.
like anything it's duty cycle and due diligence. Replace your chain regularly irrespective of wear and use a new split link and it shouldn't be a problem. However we know that quite often the chain will never be replaced till it's worn and the discerning tightwad will want to reuse the split link clip again and there's your recipe for disaster. The rivet link has got failsafe redundency built into it due to the flare. Assembled correctly there's no risk of the side plate coming off or the split link clip coming off if it wasn't put on correctly or has just rusted through, and no chance of a big torquing force putting a momentary stretch on the chain which may or may not be enough to ping the clip off it's retainers. Ultimately it's a serviceable item just like the retaining plate on the front sprocket of ducati's of a certain era. for the price the thing should be changed regularly irrespective of apparent wear or lack of it, but people eyeball it, say its good and put the old one back on and then come on to forums like this bleating that its all gone to shit because of that crappy thing, only for them to post a picture and for it to look like its been dug up from the Somme. That said, i've seen people in workshops advising customers to use a set of mole grips or groove lock pliers to do a flare on a rivet link and thought that was ok (Motorcycle city farnborough 1998). Ultimately you can't teach pork.
I would always go rivet, done properly with the right flare tool. If you wanna compare split-link dun badly with rivet done badly then don't do it at all. Get someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you.
And/or use a split link, rivet or clip, from a different brand of chain. I'm well aware of the correct method of assembling chain links but as the photo below, and Sev alluded to above, shows some may not. An instance which may not be in anyway safer.
I haven't ever had a problem with either method of joining a chain, either can be bad if the installation is badly executed. Sometimes I believe magazines are just looking to fill column inches with guff.
I don’t mind a soft link if done properly but that one pictured has been mullered. I use split links on low powered bikes but rivet links on everything else. As others have said if either hasn’t been done properly then it’s not going to end well.
Some people (the ones that use easy outs after they already fucked up) should not be allowed anywhere near mechanical things and if they are they should be forced to wear boxing gloves...
Spending a bit extra on a reputable splitter/rivetting tool pays dividends ultimately. Saying that, the operator is always the "weakest link" (no pun intended). Used properly they will ensure the chain is safe and secure and most manuafacturers even provide a table so you can check the dimensions of the flared pins, to verify you have done the job properly. Obviously if it's been buggered it up (as in the earlier photo), whoever deemed that acceptable, needs to step away from the bike and let someone competent do the job instead.
Not a fan of split links on 'proper' bikes, OK on bicycles and low powered bikes though and, obviously much easier to deal with - especially when servicing bicycles to remove the chain for cleaning etc. I had a KTM 500 motocross bike some years back, I fitted new chain/sprocket set, using a split-link chain and I (stupidly) set the chain too tight by not allowing for all the suspension travel. First ride-out on a local green lane/field area and on landing from a small jump the chain snapped, actually it didn't snap the chain, rather the split link so I had to push it home. Goes to show that it, in that case it really was the "weakest link".
Totally agree on spending that bit extra - the first one I bought snapped it's thread when riveting. 'Kin tits on a boar useless. And yes, now you've mentioned it I do remember getting the vernier out to measure the flaring.
The Powerlinks are nigh fool proof on bicycles and so easy to change especially with the correct tool. I haven't used a soft link on a bicycle in quite a long time. From memory it was a Campagnolo chain, cus I is very posh.
Actually, thinking about it my bicycles have the powerlink (I think?) - a 2 piece thing that slots together and sets/tensions when the chain is under load so, not quite a split link but similar principle as in being removable. Wouldn't want to fit on on the 916 though.
I'm not sure, now, where I heard this, just that it was when I was learning my spanner twirling on Triumphs. That two simplex primary drive chains on the 750s were stronger than the triplex they came with. Thereafter I always did that. And when I took the Jota apart I replaced it's triplex with two singles (on the outer sprockets of course). I always used split links and never had any trouble. Fwiw.
I guess like that to facilate easy chain sprocket changes. Didn’t Robert’s say they couldn’t pay him enough money to race that. Bike was banned in the end wasn’t as it was kicking HD ass.
Yeah, I gathered from some of the other threads quite a few motocrossers use split links as a matter of course because, exactly as you say, it makes sprocket/wheel changes so much easier. I believe so - this may have been posted here before but hey ho it's worth a second look. Action & predictable whooping & hollering starts at around 3:30.
Period correct, when we raced TZ Yams and RG Suzukis they all had split links. My mates TZ750 was producing around 120 bhp and was probably the pinnacle of 2 stroke race engines. It always ran a split link as did my other mates RG500 and my TZ350, none of us ever had problems and back in those days of shoestring budgets a chain would easily go for a couple of seasons or more.
