A few more jobs done Replacement RR fitted. I usually keep a mosfet RR in stock, I buy them cheap when they pop up so I have them for any new Duc I buy. A new stand was also on the to-do list, the old one was pretty ugly. I found a nice 1198 item and swapped them over. One of the heel guards was missing so a replacement set were sourced. Two indicators were missing and the remaining two were tatty so reproduction items were fitted. The rear guard was also replaced with a non-damaged one The main issue I had to address before starting the bike was the fuel system. I replaced the hoses, filters, pump and quick disconnects
It has been a few weeks and I have been chipping away at it here and there. The good news is that it is a runner, although not great at first as there was a lot of popping out the intake. I decided to go through the throttle body setup as by eye I could see the butterflys were way out from each other. I haven't checked valve clearances yet so I'll do this process again after that but for now I wanted to see if I actually had a decent runner. Following Brad the bike boy's guide I started with the TPS reset. After hooking the multimeter into the ecu plug I could see the setting wasn't too far off at 380mV, after backing off the idle screw I set the TPS to 150mV then wound in the screw to get 318mV to get the 1.6 degrees throttle opening. With everything refitted the air bleeds were closed and balancer hooked up. The vertical cylinder was way off but came right after a few turns of the adjuster. I forgot to get any pics but next I hooked up my wideband afr meter to each exhaust header and set the cylinders to the same reading by adjusting the air bleeds, after that I used the idle trimmer in the ECU to then set both cylinders to about 13:1 afr for 4% CO. The idle trimmer was almost at max enrichment when I started but is now at the midway point. Happy with the improvement!
It's an old Innovate MTX-L I've had for years. I bodged an adapter to use the bungs in the exhaust, here it is on my M900.
Sorry another question about your setup, what's the extra hose coming out of the adapter? Thanks Chris
No worries. The O2 sensor is too big for the bungs so the exhaust gas needs to pass through the adapter, past the sensor then out to atmosphere. The coil of hose is just to stop any fresh air reaching the sensor due to the exhaust pulses.
@M nine I use the same MTX sensor and had the attached adaptor made to fit the exhaust manifold bungs. It goes M18x1.5 to gas 1/8. Very handy.
Ok, the brakes are all done now. Unfortunately they were in a bit of a state, rust all through them and most of the fluid had leaked out so at the start I knew I was going to strip them right down. They cleaned up pretty well, all new seals fitted then reassembled. This go around is just about getting it up and running again so replated hardware will have to wait till next year. The masters got some attention too, stripped, cleaned, bores polished and reassembled. The front got a new reservoir as the old one had a nut rusted onto the screw so had spun in its seat. Lastly the lines were replaced, the front ones were aftermarket but had rust coming through the chrome which the inspector would probably frown at and the stock rear hose was completely blocked. I always seem to need to spend a few days loosening and reseating the bleed nipples to get them to seal after a strip down, anyone else find the same?
Had the very same issue recently on a small two piston Brembo calliper which didn't leak before fitting a new braided hose but the bleed nipple was suddenly weeping after refilling. Took the whole thing apart and fully cleaned = no leaking so must have been a piece of grit under the nipple.
Mine were completely cleaned before reassembly even the bleed nipples. I can only assume the cleaning changed the way the parts mate together (parts weren't mixed between calipers) and they then needed a few cycles of loosening then tightening to bed in. Same thing happened with the last set I did although that did include replated parts.
