Recommissioning 2009 1098

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by Andrew Hopley, Nov 23, 2025.

  1. Hi all,

    I'm about to begin recommissioning my recently purchased 2009 1098. The bike has 15k on the clock and has sat in the previous owner's house for the past 10 years. The previous owner prepared the bike for the road again around 6 years ago, but never completed any rides, and the bike remained off-road and on display in the house.

    The work completed was a full service, including belts.

    The bike has developed an engine management light after being stored for so long, and the diagnosis revealed an open circuit in the throttle idle. The bike runs and rides superbly, although. I have not had it on the road, the short test up the farmer's private lane has shown the basics to be on point, it starts, stops, idles, revs and sounds fantastic.

    List of actions:

    • Investigate and resolve the EMG light
    • Front fork service and seals
    • replace cambelts
    • Oil and filter service
    • Clutch check
    • Brake check
    • New chain and sprockets
    • New tyres
    • Replace brake fluid
    Really looking forward to completing the work, giving the bike a full detail in the process and getting some seat time come the spring. All recommendations welcome, and I'll be documenting my progress here and on YouTube (shorts).

    20250921_141220.jpg
     
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  2. Congrats on the new bike, I’ve just got a 1098S too and I’m also documenting on YouTube! Although I don’t need to do as much to mine, but I’ve got a few jobs to do. Looking forward to following your work.
     
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  3. Hi all,

    Time for a proper update following my original post about recommissioning my 2009 1098.

    When I bought the bike it:

    Started and ran beautifully

    Idled slightly high (around 1800–2000 rpm)

    Had an engine management light

    Displayed a throttle idle open circuit fault


    Short test up a private lane confirmed it felt mechanically strong, but I obviously needed to get to the bottom of the EMG light before putting it back on the road.

    Here’s how things unfolded.

    Step 1 – JPDiag & Initial Fault Codes

    Connected JPDiag and pulled the codes.

    Main faults:

    P0505 – Idle Control System (stepper related)

    STEP 2.13 on the dash


    The bike idled high but stable. That made me suspect either:

    Stepper motor issue

    Adaptation corruption

    Or mapping related behaviour


    Cleared codes, performed:

    TPS reset

    Reset Auto Adapt


    Idle improved slightly but the fault returned.

    Step 2 – Fan Fault Discovered (P0481)

    While running the bike to complete idle relearn properly, I noticed:

    Cooling fans never came on


    JPDiag showed:

    P0481 – Fan 2 Control Circuit Malfunction


    Testing via actuator test:

    Neither fan would activate


    At this point I suspected relays, wiring or ECU output.

    Step 3 – Relay & Harness Testing

    Removed relays – heavily corroded. Cleaned and bench tested.

    Relays tested fine.

    Then:

    Powered fans directly from relay socket → fans ran

    Grounded the G/W control wire manually → relay clicked & fans ran


    That proved:

    Fans good

    Wiring good

    Fuse feed good

    Relay good


    But the ECU was not grounding the fan relay control wire.

    Even under actuator test with engine running, the ECU never sank the G/W wire.

    At this point I was confident:

    Fan low-side driver inside the ECU had failed.

    Step 4 – ECU Replacement & Cloning

    Instead of repairing the old ECU, I:

    Purchased a brand new OEM IAW 5AM unit

    Used an ECU cloning service to transfer data


    Clone completed successfully.

    Installed new ECU.

    Immediate differences:

    Splash screen now shows “SBK 1098 S TSE” (previously said “SBK 1098 RACE”)

    Idle immediately correct at ~1200 rpm

    Fans now come on correctly at temperature


    So the original ECU definitely had a failed fan driver.

    Step 5 – New ECU Behaviour

    After warming up, the dash showed:

    LAMB

    EXVL


    This makes sense because:

    The new ECU is running a stock 1098S map

    My bike has a Leo Vince system

    No exhaust valve servo fitted


    The previous ECU was clearly running a RACE calibration:

    Lambda disabled

    Exhaust valve disabled

    Likely altered idle target


    That explains the previous “RACE” splash screen.


    Where Things Stand Now

    ✔ Bike starts and runs
    ✔ Idle correct
    ✔ Fans working
    ✔ No stepper instability
    ✔ Hardware issue resolved

    Remaining work:

    Reinstall lambda sensor

    Fit exhaust valve eliminator or have EXVL deleted in software

    Clear DTCs

    Decide whether to custom tune for the Leo Vince.

    Key Takeaways So Far

    1. The original ECU was genuinely faulty (fan output stage failure)

    2. The high idle was likely map-related, not mechanical

    3. Cloning preserved immobiliser but not the previous RACE calibration

    4. The stock S map runs fine, just expects stock hardware. Is running a base S map a risk on the base model engine?

    Next steps for the recommissioning list:

    Fork service (Done, MSG Racing)

    Cambelts (again for peace of mind)

    Full fluids refresh

    Filters

    Chain & sprockets

    Tyres (Done, MSG Racing)

    Brake overhaul

    More updates to follow – and I’ll keep documenting it here and on YouTube.

    Anyone running Leo Vince systems on stock S map with non S engine? thoughts welcome.

    20260131_184151.jpg
     
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  4. You now have a stock ECU when you previously had a DP ECU.
    If you have the cables for JPDiag then download the read and write tools from the Guzzidiag site.https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/
    If you still have your old ECU, reinstall it and dump the mapping using Guzzidiag Reader. Then reinstall your new ECU (consider dumping the map file first) and then use Guzzidiag Writer to flash the DP map.
    Here is a source of .bin file maps that could help.
    https://ecu-repo.spiro-media.de/Ducati-Tuning/ECU BIN Files/Ducati/848 - 1198/
     
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  5. Hi Chris,

    Thank you for the reply and the additional info. I'm not yet aware of what a "DP" ECU is. I do still have the old unit, but quite nervous about flashing maps, given the likely cause of the transistor blowing on the old unit was some kind of voltage spike from connecting to it? How delicate are these things?
    My other concern with your suggestion is how ridable on the road that race map is? It had a very high idle, is that normal for a DP ECU?
    If it is safe and useable on the road with no impact to MOT etc I would consider doing it. My first thought is to refit the lambda sensor and an exhaust valve delete to get it through the MOT, and see how ridable the current map is, and if needed take the bike to have the current ECU remapped for the road.

    Your suggestion, knowledge and feedback is really appreciated, let me know your thoughts.

    Thanks
     
  6. DP is Ducati Performance I believe.

    Looks like solid progress. I must have missed this thread but will follow now.

    I have an 07 1098s and love it. Look at my avatar and you’ll see some similarities.
     
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  7. DP stands for Ducati Performance. It was an off the shelf ECU sold by Ducati which had a fuelling map different to the standard ECU to accomodate a freer flowing DP air filter and a wider diameter, freer flowing exhaust system.

    In no way does it make the bike unrideable and in no way will it impinge upon the ability for the bike to pass its MOT. An exhaust system marked ‘ for race use only’ however may be a different matter.

    A thought occurred to me when reading your posts. The lack of a ground path at the ECU. Does the ECU have to have a separate ground cable attached to it like some others? Was that cable perhaps not attached?

    Edit: a quick check of the wiring diagram in the workshop manual indicates a separate earth connection from the body of the ECU to the loom and back to the battery -ve.
     
    #7 West Cork Paul, Feb 22, 2026 at 11:38 AM
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2026 at 11:50 AM
  8. That little earth flylead must always be connected to one of the two retaining bolts through the heat sink.
    It is possible for internal earth paths in the ECU to fail. Usually caused by voltage spikes or inverted polarity of the battery. A solution is to run an earth wire direct to the negative battery terminal from the diagnostic connector earth. The connector is a 3 way Superseal with just 2 wires into it. What would be the middle wire is the earth.
     
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  9. Thanks Paul,

    I can confirm the earth cable is present on one of the mounting bolts. And thanks for confirming the DP version is an MOT pass (subject to exhaust). If the software is readily available and relatively straightforward I will pursue downloading the config file from the old DP ECU and deploy it to the new one. I was a little disappointed the cloning service didn't do this, but just happy to have the original key and immobilizer setup on the new ECU and the bike runs.
    One question I have is will pushing the DP config to the ECU also deploy the lambda and exhaust valve delete?

    Thanks
     
  10. No immo in your ECU. The immo is just in the dash.
     
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