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I used to have problems with the fuses on my SS. It makes sense to me that cleaning off the oxidation on the fuse blades didn't immediately help...
Any more on this ??
If you’ve checked battery terminals, loosened them, cleaned them, wiggled them and retightened them, I’d go for fuses next. Just being intact...
That fits perfectly with having a dodgy contact somewhere which can't sustain the load, so the contact breaks down. First port of call for me...
A solvent like thinners is a much better idea but having said that, an abrasive cleaner where the abrasive in the cleaner is softer than the...
+1 on the thinners. This worked for me with burned on plastic/rubber from a pillions boot.
Good but if you haven't done so already, do check the battery and earth connections, especially as the battery has been teplaced recently, as well...
I agree. It's probably something really simple and strongest candidates for me would be: Loose or oxidised battery or earth contacts. Oxidised...
not oem, looks like Termi to me
Termi cans have straps and rivets. OEM are just welded. My bike came with a gutted oem can with termi size outlets and is straight through.
@Derek will get you sorted
I’m against it myself.
You wouldn’t be the first...
Green with envy??
It’s really odd that the clutch could work well enough to allow neutral selection at rest but drag badly enough to cause gear selection issues at...
Although it could conceivably be something serious, I’ll bet it’s something simple, so don’t panic. Dials usually light up with all the warning...
Relays can be a problem on these, especially the hard to get to one behind the battery box. Replacing it or all of them is cheap and worth doing...
Aftermarket grips can migrate along the throttle tube and foul the bar end
R1 throttle tube is a good, cheap mod and a starting circuit cable kit will actually save you money by preserving your sprag clutch.
Do you have an open airbox? An open airbox will really complement your baffle-free slip-ons and give it the most wonderful bellow
