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Did you mention the wheel spin on the dyno.....:D:D:D:D
So 1 the spring caps were wrong 2 the stack height was wrong #10 ....#35.....
you can lead a horse to water......
you need to add that that result is on a dynojet, and that your rev limiter was under 11000 rpm......
So what else has changed then...
So the common denominator is you putting the new plates in...ie stack height wrong...
i think that pressure plate tat thing is for a slipper and doesn't engage with the drum like the std cover does...
that alignment thing won't make any difference to the load on those springs...
we have established ive lost the will..does that help?:upyeah::)
but thanks for your help anyway.......
all of a sudden....the tractor resumed its cloaking device before bradders got there......:rolleyes:
so when you squeeze the clutch in there isn t enough gap in the coils to get the full movement for disengaging. Are they new springs, what about...
1) the springs in your pictures look almost coil bound.. 2) Flat metal plates of different thickness are interchangeable. The idea is to create...
;) dyno twins... [ATTACH]
getting on the band wagon..;)
i would start with google....:rolleyes:
heres what i think... its fumes unburnt fuel from the exhaust.....when you had the bike dynoed they are interested in power and not the low down...
and a speed sensor below the rear calliper for the rear wheel....
. [ATTACH]
or a bsd one....;)
